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July 23rd, 2008
03:49 pm - A mzungu, but not a bule
I was hearing a Kenyan friend explain the Indonesian word bule (pronounced boo-lay). "It's the same as mzungu", she says, translating it into Kiswahili. "Aha, but it's not the same," I replied, "I'm a mzungu, but am not a bule."
Confusing? So here's the thing. In Indonesia, a bule is a white foreigner. So I'm not one. In fact, most people regarded me as almost local. But in Kenya, a mzungu is any pale skinned foreigner. Thusly, I am a mzungu, and am definitely seen very very very much as a foreigner.
Working and living in Africa is different to working in Asia for me. In my previous postings in Indonesia, Philippines, and even Afghanistan, I looked local. Almost. But in Africa, I stick out like dog's balls. I've been wondering if this creates a distance between myself and the people I work with.
Also, I find that being Asian is a strange thing. Perceptions of me change with context. As the The Freshly Married Husband tells me, "In Australia, I think you are brown. In Indonesia, you were like everyone. But now in Africa, you are pale as".
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/smile.gif) amused
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July 19th, 2008
09:19 am - More on NGO security management
Of late, I have expressed concern about NGO security management in Somalia. This morning, I have now found out that two French aid workers have been kidnapped in Afghanistan, in a town called Nili, which I have been to. On Friday, the gunmen entered the Action Contre la Faim (ACF) compound and grabbed two French aid workers as they slept.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
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July 16th, 2008
01:35 pm - Paying to work in Somalia
I'm no stranger to fraud and misconduct amongst NGO workers. On my last posting in Indonesia, we terminated eight staff in the space of half a year. And it broke my heart when I terminated my deputy in my last week in Indonesia. It was for awarding contracts to a family member.
So now, I have a fraud radar. I arrive at a new mission, and it's not hard to figure out where the fraud occurs. There are the standard bribes, kickbacks, cronyism, under-the-table deals, and gifts. But in Somalia, there is now something I have never experienced before.
Supervisors demand 30 to 40% of salaries from their staff. Yep, so if someone earns $150 per month, they give about $50 to their boss. Now with the hyperinflation in Somalia, many staff are complaining that they have to pay too much money to their supervisors, and can't live on what they have. Ah, and that's the first we hear about this practice.
There has been some debate about what we do about this. Some say it's 'cultural' so we should allow it. But then, so are revenge killings and female genital mutilation. So where should our acceptance of 'culture' end? Others say it's too hard to police, given that expats find it hard to get to Somalia. We've had one such complaint in our team, and we were not able to take action as it was one person's word against another's. Tricky. And frustrating.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/angry.gif) shits me to tears
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July 15th, 2008
08:41 am - It's Somalia, but you'll be orright
The situation in Somalia is deteriorating fast. Last week was a particularly bad week for Mogadishu. The head of UNDP was killed, and two other aid workers in separate incidents. One of our cars got carjacked. And we received two threat letters telling our NGO to leave or our staff will be targeted.
Not surprisingly, we are hearing of many organisations suspending their activities in Mogadishu. We are wondering if we should do the same, but hesitate to do so given that the activities are 'life saving' ones. But the staff are scared. Scared and angry.
I head back to Somalia in one week. But not to Mogadishu. I am told that it is 'safe' where I am going. But safety is a relative thing. Ethiopian troops attacked a town merely 80 km away, following Al Shabab attacking Baidoa. And there were also incidents in Huddur, not so far away.
I asked what instructions our guards have been given in a situation where Ethiopian / TFG / ICU / Al Shabab troops approach our compound. Do they fight to the death protecting us? Do they let the troops in? What do they do? It's now clear that no one knows what they are meant to do. I then asked what I should do. Should I run and hide? Where do I run and hide to? There is no safe house. No bunker. No escape route. I was told to await instructions from the Head of Base. What if the Head of Base is not in the base or is killed?
My questions caused the person in charge of security to get flustered. His response was "nothing is going to happen", "and if something does happen, we will know about it in advance and will evacuate you". My response was a mocking, "really?". We usually don't know until the troops are already in town.
So security procedures are getting reviewed. I was told that no bunker is being built because it "sends out the wrong message" to the community. What? That there is a war going on? As a compromise, there may be a safe house created where there are reinforced doors and barred windows. Somewhere we can hide if things go pear-shaped. Currently our doors are made are made of tin roofing and wood. Flimsy. Very flimsy. But needless to say, I now realise that if our compound is stormed, we will become just another aid worker statistic.
Current Location: Nairobi, Somalia
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July 4th, 2008
05:54 pm - So I'm not in Somalia
I was meant to be in Somalia this week. But it didn't happen. In fact, not only did I not get to go, but the entire team was evacuated, along with every single UN and NGO worker in the town.
Why? Well, there was an incident in the next town. According to one source, Somali gunmen kidnapped two UN workers. They were then released a few hours later. What I heard was that the 'gunmen' were not random militants, but the members of the Islamic Court Union (ICU) who were arresting the local authorities who had been appointed by the US-backed Transitional Federal Government (TFG). And the UN workers were actually NGO workers contracted by UNDP. And UNDP was targeted as they are perceived as supporting the TFG. I have no way of verifying any of this. Meanwhile, there were no ICU forces in the town I was meant to go to. But Al-Shabab was there a few days prior.
Then in another region to the north, Ethiopian troops entered (and left) another town that we have an office in. Staff fled when they heard that there were over 30 trucks of Ethiopian troops arriving. There was fighting between the Ethiopian troops and Al-Shabab, with casualties. Then they left again.
So much for the Djibouti peace agreement. Not worth the paper it was signed on.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
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June 30th, 2008
07:58 am - Put away those laptops
About a week ago, I met a lovely young woman whilst walking home. Let's call her Kelly. On our walk, we talked about our lives, how I had recently arrived into the country, and had no Kenyan friends. Being extremely hospitable, she invited me to her home over the weekend. An offer I gladly accepted. Anything to break out of the Nairobi expat bubble.
So on Saturday, I went out to Kawangware, a township not very far away. My friend has a lovely little apartment, in middle class Nairobi. I spent time playing with her flatmate's six-year-old daughter, watching TV together, and going to the local markets together. We bought kitchen stuff for my new kitchen at a fraction of the price sold in the expat green zone. Also, I bought these great local oranges, which look completely different to the plastic Sunkist-style oranges we only seem to get in our guesthouse. It was a great day. I felt normal again, and happy to be out of the expat bubble. Conversation with my new friend flowed freely. We spoke of the post-election violence, about love, about life. I was happy.
Then came sunset, and with that, I had to go back to the expat green zone. It's seen as dangerous for a foreigner to be out in a township at night. So I invited Kelly over to the green zone, and out for dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant. En route, we stopped at my guesthouse (I haven't moved out yet) so that I could drop my shopping off and get some warm clothes.
The guesthouse was crowded with expat staff evacuated from Somalia. After brief introductions, I left Kelly in my bedroom as I went to the toilet. I was pulled aside as I came out of the toilet. The expat Logistician said to me, "You are allowed to bring friends home. But it's not a good idea to bring over someone that you met in the streets. What is going to happen if things go missing from the house?". Meaning, "make sure your African friend doesn't steal anything".
I was beyond shocked. I replied quietly, "I will take full responsibility if anything goes missing". And walked away. Kelly and I left immediately after. Clearly, it was not seen as okay for someone to have a non-expat friend over.
Today, I found out that when I was in my bedroom with Kelly, he went around telling everyone to lock their laptops and valuables away in their bedrooms, because they could get stolen by Kelly. Yep, just because she's African, she was going to walk out of the razor-wire compound with all our laptops and valuables.
I feel truly sickened and angry. People have white friends over all the time. No one says anything. But bring an African friend over, and it's like she's got the plague. It's racism, plain and simple. And I cannot bear it.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
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June 25th, 2008
10:59 am - Doom and gloom for Somalia's rainfed cropping
I have been doing a bit of reading. It appears that rainfed cropping in Somalia is pretty much a lost cause. The UN Food and Agriculture Organisation (2001) report, Farming Systems and Poverty describes the sorghum agropastoral farming system as such:This farming system occupies 198 million ha (8 percent) of the land of the region, generally in the semiarid zone of West Africa from Senegal to Niger, and in substantial areas of East and Southern Africa from Somalia and Ethiopia to South Africa. It has an agricultural population of 33 million (8 percent) and their density is modest, but pressure on the limited amount of cultivated land is very high. Crops and livestock are of similar importance. Nearly 22 million ha are used for crops – 12 percent of the cultivated land in the region. Rainfed sorghum and pearl millet are the main sources of food and are rarely marketed, whereas sesame and pulses are sometimes sold. Land preparation is by oxen or camel, while hoe cultivation is common along riverbanks. The system contains nearly 25 million had of cattle as well as sheep and goats. Livestock are kept for subsistence (milk and milk products), offspring, transportation (camels, donkeys), land preparation (oxen, camels), sale or exchange, savings, bridewealth and insurance against crop failure. The population generally lives permanently in villages, although part of their herds may continue to migrate seasonally in the care of herdboys.
The main source of vulnerability is drought, leading to crop failure, weak animals and the distress sale of assets. Poverty is extensive, and often severe. The potential for poverty reduction is only moderate. Agricultural growth potential is also modest and presents important challenges. ( Read more... )
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
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June 20th, 2008
05:05 pm - Why don't Somali farmers plough?
The NGO I am working for has spent the last three years training Somali farmers about 'improved agricultural technique' for their sorghum. What's this about? Well, namely telling farmers that they should plough their land and sow the seeds a row. Why? This is meant to improve germination of the sorghum, and enhance growth by 'bringing the nutrients out'.
So for three years, the NGO workers have gone out and trained farmers. Some adopt the methods, but many don't. The activity is a failure, and farmers don't want to fund it anymore. So in my last visit, I asked one of the NGO workers why they don't plough their land. The answer? "They don't have camels to plough the land with". In fact, they tell me, "Farmers know they should plough the land. And if they had camels, they would definitely plough!".
Aha! A tiny oversight of ours. No animals mean that they have to do so by hand and hoe. It's a long and tedious exercise. And mind you, this is not high-value crop like rice or wheat, where there can be 4 - 6 metric tonnes per hectare yield. This is sorghum. The yield is about 0.3 - 0.4 metric tonnes, less than a tenth the yield. Not really worth getting the hoe out, if you ask me. And how much can one work on with hand and hoe anyway?
We are humbled by our misdiagnosis of the problem. We thought it was a lack of knowledge, but it is a lack of draught animals. But now what next? We can't go around giving away camels! They cost about USD300-500 each, depending on size and age of the camel. It's too expensive, and will lead to local jealousies. An option is oxen, but still, they cost about USD150 each. And oxen aren't as hardy. Unlike camels and goats, they can't eat the prickly native shrubs and need sorghum leaves as fodder, nor drink the salty water in the wells. Thus, they are more likely to get sick and die in a drought.
I've been sitting here wondering what we can do. Each option gets struck off the list as impractical, too expensive, too sensitive, too inappropriate, too something or other. Any ideas, brains trust?
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/confused.gif) befuddled
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June 19th, 2008
12:56 am - Of razor wire
Sudan Man writes of the many security measures springing up in Juba, South Sudan:Razor wire and 4 meter high brick walls don't encourage a spirit of reciprocal hospitality. It encourages us to live separate lives from our Sudanese hosts. It goes along with NGO personnel driving around by themselves in their new, air conditioned Land Cruisers, eating at exclusive cafe's and staying in pricey hotels. His reflections totally remind me of my time in Kabul, or the Kabubble, as I liked to call it. The alienation from the Kabul populace frustrated me completely. We used to say that the razor wire was more to keep us in than to keep others out. Thusly, the razor wire in Somalia brought back a few memories, and had to be photographed.
And today, I signed a one-year lease on a flat in Nairobi. And yes, it is a walled compound with a guard. No razor wire though. And while it still reeks of exclusivity, it isn't quite as 'fuck you' as the old colonial mansion I currently live in.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/tired.gif) buggered
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June 17th, 2008
10:50 am - "I thought I was going to be saving African babies"
The NGO I now work for employs people with no prior relevant experience to work in Somalia.
So for example, one could have never managed anyone before, nor been in a humanitarian context before, nor even worked overseas, nor speak fluent English. And one gets a job managing food security or nutrition or water project, managing 20 Somali staff in English, in a tense humanitarian context. With no people management skills, no project management skills, no budget skills, no humanitarian skills. Just one week's training in Paris to rely on.
They call people who fit this criteria the 'First Missions'. Many of the expats in the field are First Missions.
I find this irresponsible, and possibly verging on criminally negligent. The context is tough enough even if you have all the required skills. As one of the First Missions said to me, "Paris doesn't tell us that 80% of the job is about managing a project and managing people. So people have this idea that they are just going to be saving African babies from dying".
No shit.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: frustrated
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June 15th, 2008
07:03 pm - You call this a water catchment?
When in south central Somalia, I saw this water catchment which was dug as part of a Cash-For-Work programme with the NGO I am working for. As you can see, it is completely ineffective as a water catchment.
Because it is so wide and shallow, there is a lot of infiltration (water seeping into the ground) and evaporation (water evaporating from the surface). The result? The water only lasted one month. Yet, it is meant to provide water through the dry season.
I asked the NGO staff why they chose this design, which was too wide and shallow. Furthermore, it has steep sides. They said this was the design the beneficiaries wanted. No shit. Of course they would want to only dig the top 1 m of soil, given that it would be the easiest part to dig. There was also mention that they wanted something shallow so that if a child falls in, he or she can still stand. This is not a valid reason given that a toddler can drown in 20 cm of water. And besides, if this was the valid concern, then surely the sides should be sloping?
Needless to say, I'm going to change the design.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/blah.gif) disappointed
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June 13th, 2008
09:28 pm - Another hungry season
Back in Nairobi now. And what struck me on the way from the airport is how lush and green it is here. In contrast, Somalia is in a drought. The Gu rainy season is just drawing to a close, and the rains have been poor.
See this sorghum? It is meant to be at shoulder height by now. Yet this is only about 20 cm high. It's going to be another hungry season.
And more photos of Somalia can be seen here.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: tired
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June 5th, 2008
05:32 pm - Tale of two AK47s and some khat
Okay, so here is the situation this morning in my part of Somalia. Armed men are roaming around town refusing to let any cars move anywhere. Why? It's a long story.
A couple of months ago, there was some fighting and two killings... one at a time. At least one killing was attributed to Al Shabab. And linked to these events, some khat was purchased by some local men. I am not sure if it was to celebrate, or to hype themselves up to fight. Or perhaps in simple defiance of Al Shabab who wanted to shut down the khat dealers and ban khat. It's complex. Anyhow, somehow, around USD1,000 worth of khat was purchased. And they didn't have enough money to pay for it. So they gave two AK47s as guarantee.
Now, a month after the AKs were given as guarantee, the bill has not been settled. So the khat dealers are threatening to sell the guns. So the owners of the two guns (who I understand are a third party) are pissed off and are setting up checkpoints refusing to let any cars move. Apparently, people on foot and donkey carts are okay. So the Logistics lads asked our suppliers to bring supplies in by donkey cart. Yep, donkey cart.
But the town has ground to a halt. The UNHAS pilot can't get to the airport. No NGO or UN cars can move. And it is all because of two AK47s and the politics surrounding it. But as my colleague says "But guns are more important here than wives". And perhaps even more important than camels. But that's another discussion to be had.
Current Location: South Somalia
Current Mood: perplexed
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June 3rd, 2008
03:18 pm - Somali dress code for women
I leave for Somalia tomorrow for five days. And once again, I'm having trouble knowing what clothes to pack. I have been known to overdress for Muslim societies when I assume greater conservatism than is present. So this time, I thought I would be very specific about what I needed to wear. Thus, it comes as a rude shock to me that the clothes I wore in Afghanistan are inappropriate and too revealing! "What the fuck!?", I hear you ask. So here's the dress code for southern Somalia:
Head dress: I was told, "You need to wear the little scarf all the time with no hair showing. Then you also need to wear the big scarf that covers your neck, shoulders and breasts. No skin or shape can show". Woah. I have only ever worn one scarf. I fear heat stroke!
Clothes: "Your shirt needs to be very loose, and must cover your bottom. The sleeves must reach your wrist. You can only show your hands, but not any part of your arms. You should wear a very lose skirt that is down to the floor". Oh dear. All my shirts for Afghanistan only reached halfway between elbow and wrist.
So yeah. I have now received a training session on how to wear "the small scarf and the big scarf". Now to borrow appropriate clothing. Oh, incidentally, men can walk around in t-shirts. The bastards.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/surprised.gif) what the?
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June 2nd, 2008
04:15 pm - British versus French NGOs
I was first enamoured with French NGOs when I was in Afghanistan. Whilst I travelled through Hazarajat in British NGO two-car convoys (white 4WD), our French colleagues from Solidarite were on motorcycles. Whilst we fussed about with security rules and reporting requirements, our French colleagues from MADERA had amazing demonstration plots, spinning wheels, and tree planting programmes.
I wondered if we had lost our way. Whether we were too anal. Bogged down under the weight of bureaucracy. No longer capable of being creative, flexible and responsive. No longer focusing on the technical aspects, but being distracted by the managerial aspects.
Now, a month after joining a French NGO, I am feeling ambivalent and unsure. I had underestimated the difference in culture between British and French NGOs. I've now discussed this matter with various other NGO workers with experience with both. There are recurring themes expressed. And these are some of them:
1. British NGOs tend to be strong in managerial terms, but weaker technically. With French NGOs, the opposite tends to apply -- strong technically, and weak managerially.
2. British NGOs pay better, and look after their staff better. The pay difference is massive. I would earn three times as much doing the same job for my former employer. And for a career NGO worker, a French NGO salary is often not sustainable.
3. French NGO staff often tend to be in their 20s and 30s. They often tend to do one mission or two, then burn out. British NGO staff tend to be older, probably in 30s up to 50s. I was usually one of the youngest with my former employer, but am one of the oldest here.
4. French NGOs are more flexible and more responsive. But are also more chaotic. As one German NGO worker mentioned, he was horrified to find out that decisions often get made through passionate shouting matches. I've already seen such shouting matches. But decision making tends to be faster.
5. French NGOs are more hierarchical. Organisational charts are vertical rather than flat. The person I manage (also an expat), earns less than half what I earn. My boss would earn almost twice what I earn. Not so with British NGOs. The salary structure is much flatter.
6. With French NGOs, there is a reliance on 'instinct' and 'personal judgment' for security. Whereas with British NGOs, there is a reliance on procedures and systems. Or one could say, British NGOs are more anal.
7. British NGOs tend to place much more emphasis on gender, child protection, and other such issues. French NGOs, as I have found out, tend to be gender blind.
Then there are the 'cultural' aspects of French NGOs. The staff guesthouse is not so different to a uni student share-house. Chain smoking, splifs, alcohol, and clubbing till 5 am is the norm. The kitchen often looks like a bomb hit it. Plus people fight openly. Given that I don't smoke, don't drink much, don't eat meat or cheese, speak French, nor like to fight... my integration is a challenge.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
Current Mood: tired
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May 28th, 2008
04:37 pm - Yep, it's a famine
At the food security training in Madrid three weeks ago, the nutritionist said, "If the incidence of acute malnutrition is about 10-12%, you should think of some targeted food distribution. If it is above 15%, definitely have to do distributions, and possibly a blanket (meaning 'for everyone') distribution. This is a very high percentage".
So I was expecting the acute malnutrition rate to be somewhere near 12%. This week, the results have come out for the most recent nutrition survey in our working areas in Somalia. Acute malnutrition is 22%* for children under the age of five. That's TWENTY FUCKING TWO PER CENT.
On top of that, the rains have failed for this growing season. Water catchments are already dry.
Welcome to Somalia. As one expat put it, Somalia – the Iraq of Africa. I think that's putting it lightly. It has the conflict of Iraq with the drought of eastern Australia. A lethal combination. Inshallah, I shall be there next week.
* This is 22% of random sample of children aged six months to five years. It's defined using WHO weight-for-height charts.
Current Location: Nairobi, Kenya
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May 22nd, 2008
11:59 am - La (or le) champignon
I head off to Nairobi today after an over-long process of basic training and briefing.
But one snippet to share. There was a doctor called in to brief us on the major health risks in developing country contexts. He was explaining the pros and cons of various malaria prophylaxes. A disadvantage of doxycillin (an antibiotic), he said, is that it can cause candidosis (thrush).
"What's candidosis?", someone asked. His reply in his very strong French accent: "It'sa whenna you hava champignon in your vagine".
Ah, the mental images...
Current Location: Paris, France
Current Mood: tee!
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May 8th, 2008
03:29 pm - Gender and the new employer
A week ago in Australia, the freshly-married husband had a look over the training outline for the food security training course I am attending this week. "Hmmm...", he said, eyebrow raised, "there is no session on gender".
This is surprising, given the strong influence of gender with regards to food cultivation, preparation, entitlement and consumption. Indeed, malnutrition rates are typically much higher for girls rather than boys, even within the same household. But gender has hardly featured. Except for a session on income generating activities, where the trainer said that income generating activities for women can include giving them sewing machines. Yet, it has been shown that tailoring, as an income generating activity, is typically hugely unsuccessful the world over.
Then came a discussion amongst the trainees. One trainee said, "There are some locations that are dangerous, so women should not go there. Only men should be posted there". "Why?", I asked, genuinely puzzled. "A woman can get raped there, and that's bad for the woman", I was told. "But men can get beaten and killed. Also, men have been tortured and violated in some areas", I suggested. But apparently, women take being violated 'harder' than men do, said my colleague. And they pose more of a security risk. Really? Is this fact or is this an assumption? Yet, no one could explain then why I (as a female) have been selected to go to Somalia. Given that it is the most insecure humanitarian site in the world at the moment. The only site that the NGO I work with uses armed guards.
Another trainee said that in some areas, women are not taken seriously due to local culture. Such as in Afghanistan, I was told. Apparently, the female head of mission there was withdrawn a few years ago because as a female she was not able to negotiate with government officials or manage male staff. "Really?", I said, "I never had those problems in Afghanistan. Afghan men have always respected my position". In fact, some of the most eminent aid workers in Afghanistan have been female. An example is the French aid worker and author, Anne Lancelot, who had been in Afghanistan for over a decade, in both the Taliban and post-Taliban era. Back to my current employer, I met the male replacement for the head of mission when I was still in Kabul (with my previous employer). The new guy was somewhat lost and looked like a kangaroo caught in headlights. Ironically, his female boss from head office in Paris had to come to Kabul to help him out. "Afghanistan can be a difficult environment. Perhaps it had nothing to do with the fact she is female", I suggested. That was met with a shrug.
So, thus far, gender has been ignored in technical issues and programming, yet has been discussed a lot in human resource issues. And not positively. Interesting.
Current Location: Madrid, Spain
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May 7th, 2008
03:21 pm - Greetings from Vespastan
Toaf and I have a darling little Vespa. Her name is Ruby and she lives in Canberra. And in Canberra, Ruby doesn't get a chance to meet many other Vespas. Except when I take her for a service at Motorini. But here in Madrid, it's Vespas galore!
On another matter, I am beginning to realise how East Asian I am in my eating habits. I need to eat rice at least every other day. And not just any rice. I'm talking preferably Thai jasmine rice. Cooked to fluffy goodness using the absorption method, and eaten in a rice bowl with chopsticks.
Given that, I'm not doing so good with Spanish food. Plus, given I speak no Spanish, it's been hard to get vegetarian food. I seem to be subsisting on potato frittatas (called tortillas, apparently) wedged in buns. I tried a paella (picked out the meat) but it was so filled with olive oil and other forms of fat, it made me quite nauseous. Grease and lard is the name of the game. And I'm getting indigestion.
Current Location: Madrid, Spain
Current Mood: ![[mood icon]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/mood/growf/smileys/sick.gif) queasy
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April 30th, 2008
12:50 pm - Unintended consequences
A memory springs to mind. About six months ago in Nias (Indonesia), I was working on a programme to provide training to hundreds of cocoa farmers in how to grow cocoa trees. Cocoa trees, unlike most trees, are fussy little things. They are understorey trees, and are prone to getting burnt if not shaded enough. They love humidity and high rainfall, yet are prone to fungal infections. They need to be pruned, and fertilised and loved.
Naturally, training on cocoa farming needs to be hand-on. So for each village, we selected one stand of cocoa trees as a demonstration plot (or demplot, as the team liked calling it) for us to conduct hands-on, practical training at. In a poor isolated upland village, we selected (through a transparent selection process) a beautiful little cocoa farm as our demplot. The trainers were happy with it, and the villagers liked being trained there. All was well.
A week into training, a group of three men with machetes came along to the training. They threatened the villagers, trainers and NGO staff. They held the machetes out threateningly. They claimed the farm as their own, despite the fact that they lived in a distant village. The villagers, trainers and staff fled to the church.
The next day, I visited the village and talked to the landowner. She told me that her husband's family had been farming on that land for four generations. She planted the cocoa trees there ten years ago. And the coconut trees, twenty years ago, she says. Before her son was born. Unfortunately, like much rural land in Nias, there is no land title, and therefore, no official land ownership. "Why do these men come and say that this is their land?" she asks, "Why now?".
The answer was obvious to me. NGO assistance always attracts attention. What was once seen as worthless land is now seen has having worth. And once something has worth, people will fight over it.
Current Location: Canberra, Australia
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