We are back in Mexico, this time for two weeks, sans niño - first vacation we've taken without him in almost five years and it feels a bit liberating. Our last journey here, he redefined the word "pill" and thus has chosen to attend his first overnight summer camp in the woods at home instead. Fine with us, as pre-adolescence can be a bit wearying for everyone involved.
As punishment for actually saying out loud a time or two that we were happy to be going without him, the powers that be hit us with a big dose of karma on our flight from the Wretched Little City ® to Houston, the first leg of our journey. For four hours, I was seated next to a 9 year old girl named Kyla, traveling alone for the first time. Since I am generally a friendly sort, and felt bad for the kid who seemed nice and a bit scared to be traveling alone, I chatted with her and played a few games with her to pass the time. In short order, she morphed from quiet, somewhat scared kid into hyper out of control bad seed child, pressing the stewardess button no less than five times to go to the bathroom, hitting, poking and climbing on me at regular intervals and generally being a giant A.D.D. pest. Eventually I feigned sleep as a way to check out and though I still had to endure the regular poking, nudging, and attempts to shove unwanted chips and sticks of gum directly into my mouth, eventually her attention turned to the people behind us and she bothered them for awhile. We lived through it all eventually and hightailed it off the plane at the end of the flight, convinced we had brought it on ourselves.
After enduring another travel gremlin in the form of a four hour delay on a flight scheduled to leave Houston at 8:50 PM and arrive in Mexico City at 11:10 PM, which actually left Houston at 12:10 AM and arrived in Mexico city at 2:15 AM (thanks to heavy rain in Baltimore - sheesh!), we finally made it to La Ciudad and crashed for a few hours in the airport hotel. The next day we cabbed it to La Zona Rosa, where we had a penthouse suite reserved for my birthday at the Marco Polo. The hotel was great and in a terrific location on Amberes, near all the hip and cool places including the local sex toy shop and "BoyBar", not the first time I've regretted not being born a gay man. We were particular enamored with the bathroom, with a European style large jacuzzi tub, a veritable jungle of tropical plants, and big windows where one could shower while viewing the city vista on two sides.

This was the first of two bathrooms I would become enamored with on our trip thus far.
After checking in and enjoying the view from the balcony, we decided to try hitting the Frida Kahlo exhibit at La Palacio de las Bellas Artes. We feel incredibly privileged to even have the opportunity to visit this exhibit, which is the largest ever of Frida's works including many previously unshown works from private collections and only on display here for a short time. Portions of it will travel to other countries but nowhere else will it be shown in its entirety. Blog entries from earlier in the week recommended an early start to any attempts to visit due to big crowds and it was already well into the afternoon before we ventured out. But we figured it couldn't hurt to try.
We hit the Mexico City subway, el Metro, and proceeded to attempt to find our way there. After one misguided attempt going a few stops the wrong way on one line, we made our way to the correct station. I found the Mexico City subway quite comparable to the NYC subway both in terms of age and lack of temperature control in the stations. But generally it was fast and easy. One interesting thing is that during certain busy hours, the first two cars of all trains are reserved for women and children only. We gave it a try and rode surrounded by las mujeres de negocios in high heels, tight black clothing and good hair (all people middle class and higher in Mexico City have startling stylish coifs, with the men using even more hair product than the women), viejas straight out of some old silent film about Mexico with long gray hair and impossibly large and heavy loads of goods slung in swaths of fabric over their backs, and many jolly looking nuns. Other than the annoying vendors constantly roaming the cars hawking various goods and being roundly ignored by all, it was not an unpleasant experience.
Upon arrival at Bellas Artes, we found ourselves first overawed by the building and then a bit chagrined by the line for the exhibit. But we decided to give it a try anyway.

As cool as the building was outside, inside it was even more astonishing.


And - many people in line waiting to take it all in...

I took a place in line while V. went to buy tickets. When she returned, she reported that her ticket had been free when the ticket seller discovered she is a professor, and my ticket had cost a whopping $3.50. The line, though long, moved along at a good clip, and within 25 minutes we were inside the exhibit.
Our experience there was one of the many I've had that make me love this country. The overwhelming majority of attendees were clearly Mexicanos, and como siempre, they came in intact familias. All ages were there, from babies through children through teenagers and college kids through adults and grandparents. No one was left out, and all carried themselves with the same composure of hushed reverence at being in the presence of Frida's work. As would never be the case in the US, there was no velvet rope separating viewer from art, only a line of red tape on the floor so close to the wall that anyone including a child could easily have reached out and touched one of these great pieces. There were guards who would occasionally admonish those that stepped over the tape, but that was it. The vast majority of the paintings were unprotected by glass or plexiglass, and I stood in amazement just inches away from original paintings like Los Dos Fridas and Pensando de Diego. Every brush stroke was visible and palpable and whatever you think of Frida's work (I happen to love it), you had to be humbled by the historical and cultural impact of it, especially on the very people that were in attendance.
From there, we were off to celebrate my birthday with a dinner at El Bajío in Polanco, one of DF's swankier vecinidades. We were swayed by the recent NY Times article which referred to it as one of the "best and most distinctive Mexican restaurants in the world". Other than finding it relatively full of gringos, who obviously also read the article, it was delightful experience. The food was wonderful and we indulged without guilt. If you love real Mexican food (not the TexMex that passes for Mexican in the US), this place is a must-visit. To top it all off, the renowned owner is a native of Xalapa, our adopted home away from home, where we headed out on the luxury Uno bus first thing in the AM.
Per usual on this five hour bus trip to Xalapa, though I was suffering from a serious sleep deficit from the previous night, I could not bring myself to catch up on sleep during the bus ride. The country side between DF and Xalapa is just too interesting to sleep through. I also skipped the three movies shown on the bus during the ride, even though one was in English with Spanish subtitles. Instead I attempted to take pictures out the bus window, always an activity fraught with uncertainty. But I enjoyed it just the same.


Upon arrival in Xalapa, where it was not suprisingly raining in the afternoon, (our Mexico City cab driver, upon hearing we were headed to Veracruz, assumed we were off to the city of Veracruz itself on the coast rather than the state and said "Enjoy the heat!". When we corrected him that we were actually headed to the state capital of Xalapa he just grinned and changed his parting shot to "Enjoy the rain!"), we made our way to our friend S.'s house where her granddaughter R. gave us the keys to S.'s daughter and our friend Isabel's house, where we are house sitting while they are in LA for two weeks.
We've been to Isabel and her husband Toma's house before and knew it was nice, but it's been awhile. As we finally swung open the heavy wooden entrance door and rolled our bags into the foyer, we had big silly grins on our faces. Not only is the house gorgeous, but it has a truly spectacular view off the back patio, of the green hills rising up to one of the local extinct volcanoes, El Cofre de Perote. It is my personal opinion that the green hills that rise up along the east side of the central Mexican volcanic ridge from El Cofre to the mighty Pico de Orizaba in the south is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Yes, I'm biased and no, I'm not well traveled enough to have made a truly thorough assessment. But I stand by my opinion all the same.

Have I mentioned the maid who comes every day, cleans, does our laundry and cooks for us? Have I mentioned we are staying here for free?
To be continued, with more next entry on our hosts, their artistic endeavors, our travels in the countryside and another bathroom well worth fixating on.
Hasta pronto. And by the way, click on any picture to see it larger. :-D
® - Registered Trademark, Farmboyz
As punishment for actually saying out loud a time or two that we were happy to be going without him, the powers that be hit us with a big dose of karma on our flight from the Wretched Little City ® to Houston, the first leg of our journey. For four hours, I was seated next to a 9 year old girl named Kyla, traveling alone for the first time. Since I am generally a friendly sort, and felt bad for the kid who seemed nice and a bit scared to be traveling alone, I chatted with her and played a few games with her to pass the time. In short order, she morphed from quiet, somewhat scared kid into hyper out of control bad seed child, pressing the stewardess button no less than five times to go to the bathroom, hitting, poking and climbing on me at regular intervals and generally being a giant A.D.D. pest. Eventually I feigned sleep as a way to check out and though I still had to endure the regular poking, nudging, and attempts to shove unwanted chips and sticks of gum directly into my mouth, eventually her attention turned to the people behind us and she bothered them for awhile. We lived through it all eventually and hightailed it off the plane at the end of the flight, convinced we had brought it on ourselves.
After enduring another travel gremlin in the form of a four hour delay on a flight scheduled to leave Houston at 8:50 PM and arrive in Mexico City at 11:10 PM, which actually left Houston at 12:10 AM and arrived in Mexico city at 2:15 AM (thanks to heavy rain in Baltimore - sheesh!), we finally made it to La Ciudad and crashed for a few hours in the airport hotel. The next day we cabbed it to La Zona Rosa, where we had a penthouse suite reserved for my birthday at the Marco Polo. The hotel was great and in a terrific location on Amberes, near all the hip and cool places including the local sex toy shop and "BoyBar", not the first time I've regretted not being born a gay man. We were particular enamored with the bathroom, with a European style large jacuzzi tub, a veritable jungle of tropical plants, and big windows where one could shower while viewing the city vista on two sides.
This was the first of two bathrooms I would become enamored with on our trip thus far.
After checking in and enjoying the view from the balcony, we decided to try hitting the Frida Kahlo exhibit at La Palacio de las Bellas Artes. We feel incredibly privileged to even have the opportunity to visit this exhibit, which is the largest ever of Frida's works including many previously unshown works from private collections and only on display here for a short time. Portions of it will travel to other countries but nowhere else will it be shown in its entirety. Blog entries from earlier in the week recommended an early start to any attempts to visit due to big crowds and it was already well into the afternoon before we ventured out. But we figured it couldn't hurt to try.
We hit the Mexico City subway, el Metro, and proceeded to attempt to find our way there. After one misguided attempt going a few stops the wrong way on one line, we made our way to the correct station. I found the Mexico City subway quite comparable to the NYC subway both in terms of age and lack of temperature control in the stations. But generally it was fast and easy. One interesting thing is that during certain busy hours, the first two cars of all trains are reserved for women and children only. We gave it a try and rode surrounded by las mujeres de negocios in high heels, tight black clothing and good hair (all people middle class and higher in Mexico City have startling stylish coifs, with the men using even more hair product than the women), viejas straight out of some old silent film about Mexico with long gray hair and impossibly large and heavy loads of goods slung in swaths of fabric over their backs, and many jolly looking nuns. Other than the annoying vendors constantly roaming the cars hawking various goods and being roundly ignored by all, it was not an unpleasant experience.
Upon arrival at Bellas Artes, we found ourselves first overawed by the building and then a bit chagrined by the line for the exhibit. But we decided to give it a try anyway.
As cool as the building was outside, inside it was even more astonishing.
And - many people in line waiting to take it all in...
I took a place in line while V. went to buy tickets. When she returned, she reported that her ticket had been free when the ticket seller discovered she is a professor, and my ticket had cost a whopping $3.50. The line, though long, moved along at a good clip, and within 25 minutes we were inside the exhibit.
Our experience there was one of the many I've had that make me love this country. The overwhelming majority of attendees were clearly Mexicanos, and como siempre, they came in intact familias. All ages were there, from babies through children through teenagers and college kids through adults and grandparents. No one was left out, and all carried themselves with the same composure of hushed reverence at being in the presence of Frida's work. As would never be the case in the US, there was no velvet rope separating viewer from art, only a line of red tape on the floor so close to the wall that anyone including a child could easily have reached out and touched one of these great pieces. There were guards who would occasionally admonish those that stepped over the tape, but that was it. The vast majority of the paintings were unprotected by glass or plexiglass, and I stood in amazement just inches away from original paintings like Los Dos Fridas and Pensando de Diego. Every brush stroke was visible and palpable and whatever you think of Frida's work (I happen to love it), you had to be humbled by the historical and cultural impact of it, especially on the very people that were in attendance.
From there, we were off to celebrate my birthday with a dinner at El Bajío in Polanco, one of DF's swankier vecinidades. We were swayed by the recent NY Times article which referred to it as one of the "best and most distinctive Mexican restaurants in the world". Other than finding it relatively full of gringos, who obviously also read the article, it was delightful experience. The food was wonderful and we indulged without guilt. If you love real Mexican food (not the TexMex that passes for Mexican in the US), this place is a must-visit. To top it all off, the renowned owner is a native of Xalapa, our adopted home away from home, where we headed out on the luxury Uno bus first thing in the AM.
Per usual on this five hour bus trip to Xalapa, though I was suffering from a serious sleep deficit from the previous night, I could not bring myself to catch up on sleep during the bus ride. The country side between DF and Xalapa is just too interesting to sleep through. I also skipped the three movies shown on the bus during the ride, even though one was in English with Spanish subtitles. Instead I attempted to take pictures out the bus window, always an activity fraught with uncertainty. But I enjoyed it just the same.
Upon arrival in Xalapa, where it was not suprisingly raining in the afternoon, (our Mexico City cab driver, upon hearing we were headed to Veracruz, assumed we were off to the city of Veracruz itself on the coast rather than the state and said "Enjoy the heat!". When we corrected him that we were actually headed to the state capital of Xalapa he just grinned and changed his parting shot to "Enjoy the rain!"), we made our way to our friend S.'s house where her granddaughter R. gave us the keys to S.'s daughter and our friend Isabel's house, where we are house sitting while they are in LA for two weeks.
We've been to Isabel and her husband Toma's house before and knew it was nice, but it's been awhile. As we finally swung open the heavy wooden entrance door and rolled our bags into the foyer, we had big silly grins on our faces. Not only is the house gorgeous, but it has a truly spectacular view off the back patio, of the green hills rising up to one of the local extinct volcanoes, El Cofre de Perote. It is my personal opinion that the green hills that rise up along the east side of the central Mexican volcanic ridge from El Cofre to the mighty Pico de Orizaba in the south is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Yes, I'm biased and no, I'm not well traveled enough to have made a truly thorough assessment. But I stand by my opinion all the same.
Have I mentioned the maid who comes every day, cleans, does our laundry and cooks for us? Have I mentioned we are staying here for free?
To be continued, with more next entry on our hosts, their artistic endeavors, our travels in the countryside and another bathroom well worth fixating on.
Hasta pronto. And by the way, click on any picture to see it larger. :-D
® - Registered Trademark, Farmboyz
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