Johanna ([info]britgeekgrrl) wrote in [info]corsetmakers,
@ 2004-07-15 11:26:00
Previous Entry  Add to memories!  Tell a Friend!  Next Entry
Entry tags:patterns, simplicity 5726, simplicity 7215

Pattern Review 2 - Simplicity Corsets
Who's used the Simplicity Corset Patterns? There are two of them as I recall - 5726 and 7215.

Who's liked them? Hated them? Tips and tricks for assembling them?

If you want to suggest a pattern or online generator for the Pattern Review threads, please email me at johanna_mead(at)yahoo(dot)com. If you're recommending an online generator, don't forget to include the URL!


Advertisement

(Post a new comment)


[info]moizissimo
2004-07-15 11:59 am UTC (link)
I've got 7215. I cut it out, and mostly put it together, tried it to my measurements, and it didn't fit so I haven't finished it yet. :)

I really recommend measuring the pattern pieces, or comparing (I can't remember if they're included) the finished measurements with your own.

The nice thing about this one is that it includes instructions for lining. Yay!

(Reply to this)

[info]purplecleo
2004-07-15 12:22 pm UTC (link)
I am currently finishing up 7215. A couple things I noticed where:

I made a mock up using the lining which involved sewing the gussets in and then detaching them when I was done. It was a lot of extra work but it was worth it.

I cut a size 14 and it fit me nearly perfectly except in the bust area.

They recomend a 14 inch busk but that was going to be an extremly tight squeeze, and I had to make some height adjustments to the fabric anyway so I went down to a 13.5 and it worked just fine.

The pattern calls for a short waist tape to be used but since I was using silk I put in gro-grain for the entire width of the waist.

The only major problem I saw with the pattern is it does not explain how you are to attach certain boning channels that run through the gussets, so I assume that they meant for them to be hand stitched to the lining.

(Reply to this)

(Deleted post)

[info]britgeekgrrl
2004-07-15 01:09 pm UTC (link)
That would be this post, yes?

I don't want anyone to have to hunt through your archives if they're reading this thread three months down the road. :)

(Reply to this)(Parent)

[info]selezen
2004-07-15 04:30 pm UTC (link)
I have a lot of experience with pattern 5726 and have been pretty happy with it. However, as stated above, the pattern makes a lot of assumptions on the seamstress knowing certain tricks and implementing them at the appropriate step. The most annoying part of this particular pattern is in the measurements. I recommend adding 1/2" inch of height to both the top and the bottom, especially with loosely woven fabrics such as silks and brocade, and then cut any additional height just before closing the corset up. The reason is that unless you are cutting your own boning to length, you are going to be hard pressed to find boning at the 1/4" and 1/8" increments you need for the pattern. Most pre-cut product is sized to 1/2" increments and you want the boning at the maximum height that will fit. The other problem is fairly common with corseting being that you will have to reduce the bust measurement by up to 4" (for a D cup).

Hope this helps.
Take a look at this post if you would like to see my finished product using this pattern.

(Reply to this)(Thread)

[info]tanthe
2004-07-16 03:04 pm UTC (link)
Take a look at this post if you would like to see my finished product using this pattern.

Not to sound nitpicky or anything, but is the wearer not cinched in properly, because it doesn't seem like there's any waist compression at all in that corset?

I love the fabric, it looks gorgeous.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

[info]selezen
2004-07-16 04:13 pm UTC (link)
You're not being nit-picky at all. The client is sporting a "few more" pounds than when I measured and sewed the corset.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

[info]selezen
2004-07-16 04:29 pm UTC (link)
Oh, and on a side note I would recommend adding a waist elastic to all measurements of about 38-40" and above.

(Reply to this)(Parent)

[info]zoi_no_miko
2004-07-15 08:49 pm UTC (link)
Wow, I'm glad I'm not the only one who's had troubles with Simplicity corsets being too big in the bust. (I'm a DD, this was a first for me.)

I -loved- 7215, I've raved about it before. It's very curvy and very very comfortable.

I deviated from the suggested materials and used a mix of spring steel and spiral steel for a corset that was both supportive and form fitting but still allowed for a good deal of movement. I <3 it.

(Reply to this)(Thread)

[info]suzy_hendrix
2004-07-17 12:43 am UTC (link)
I had the same problem and I am also a DD

(Reply to this)(Parent)

[info]blutengel
2004-07-15 11:56 pm UTC (link)
I'm messing around with 7215. I like the pattern, really. My main concern is the bust size and if its going to fit. But then again, its my first corset-making project ^^;.

(Reply to this)

[info]duae
2004-07-19 12:50 pm UTC (link)
Uhh, not to sound terribly slow. But what about 9769? I bought it some time ago because it looked nice and curvy in the picture. Haven't played with it much yet beyond getting the muslin cut out and labled for easy sewing. 7215 looked more complicated, just looking at it, and I couldn't tell if 5726 would give me the victorian look.

(Reply to this)(Thread)

[info]britgeekgrrl
2004-07-19 01:42 pm UTC (link)
Can you point me to a pic of 9769?

I forgot to include it on this thread, obviously - I just went by what I had from Simplicity in my bag. :)

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

[info]duae
2004-07-19 02:28 pm UTC (link)
http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=10709&design=9769 should work.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

[info]britgeekgrrl
2004-07-19 02:39 pm UTC (link)
Y'know, I might have mislabelled/typo'd in the original post... *blush*

well, if you want to comment once you've made it, please do!! :)

(Reply to this)(Parent)

[info]paillettes
2004-07-20 09:48 am UTC (link)
regarding 9769, i've made it twice under rushed/half-assed conditions for last minute costumes (cable tie boning, an extra interlining to support highly innapropriate sequined fabric, sewing the front shut for lack of a busk, etc.) and still was very satisfied with it.

the instructions were easy to follow, so i would recommended it highly to beginning corset makers, although it would help to at least have experience with basic sewing and following commercial patterns.

i did alter mine to make it slightly smaller in the waist (although i don't consider that a fault in the pattern because civil war corsets were not as waspy as some other eras.) i'll definitely use it again -- next time i'll take it slow and use a busk, metal boning, and better fabric though :)

(Reply to this)(Thread)
*confused*
[info]iconoclast_dawn
2005-02-25 09:33 pm UTC (link)
I cannot for the life of me find a corset busk for this pattern and I can't/really dont want to order one offline. -- It's the first one I am attempting to make and I dont want to improvise too much.. - When you decided to sew the front shut did you put extra boning in? Is there a better way to do the front closures if you dont have the right materials?

(Reply to this)(Parent)

[info]maramaye
2004-08-23 06:26 am UTC (link)
I just made Simplicity 9769 yesterday and am going to make it again (and entirely differently) today.

I found it to be very simple and straightforward... so long as you don't change anything. For instance, it only provides directions for 1 layer and assumes that you can get ahold of coutil. There are no directions for using more than one layer of fabric - and if you do use more than one layer, you don't need to cut out the facing pieces (#13 and #19). You also need to alter the construction method for the center front and center back pieces, laying your busks BEFORE you put the thing together. It also specifies flat steel boning all around, and I'd be of a mind to put in spiral at the sides. It is not terribly explicit about exactly where all of the boning channels go. The standard size is a bit longer in the torso than I am, but there are no directions for how to alter to custom measurements. (Though I'd assume that if you're doing that, you've got advanced enough skills that the lack of directions wouldn't be much of a handicap.)

Other than that, the measurements seem fairly true to what's stated on the packaging, the pieces are drafted to allow actual womanly curvature, and you can do some fairly good tightlacing if you use sturdier construction methods. All in all, for a commercial pattern I'd give it a B+.

(Reply to this)(Thread)

[info]desired_poison
2004-10-11 10:04 am UTC (link)
hey there. Im working on this corset right now, and I am using more than one layer, what do you mean by not needing facing piences #13 and #19? Thanks :)

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

[info]maramaye
2004-10-11 01:23 pm UTC (link)
If you use two layers, you just set your busk and back edge bonings/grommets between those two layers, rather than adding a facing to accomodate them.

(Reply to this)(Parent)
Simp 9769
[info]elfieodette
2004-11-16 06:21 am UTC (link)
I just made up this pattern...ordering a kit from corsetmaking.com for the hardware (spiral boning, btw) and using some leftover material for the fabrics. I added a lining & interfacing (heavy weight decorator interfacing--I basted the two layers together individually), used a cotton print for the lining and silver-shot denim for the "fashion fabric" (which I realized much too late had a slight stretch to it. :/).
I spent over an hour calculating and recalculating the waist/hip measurements (I couldn't begin to guess where the bust area would fall on me to make measuring that useful). I ended up cutting a straight size 8 (about one size down from my usual choice on Simplicity)--there is already some reduction calculated into the pattern, it seems.
The instructions were less than helpful on most specific details concerning corsets: that is, they did fine on explaining the busk insertion and general seaming...but only made passing reference to putting in the boning channels or boning and no specific help on which bones went where (I ended up with one extra set of bones and not a clue where to put them). Actual piecing went quickly...but I've made loads of corsets & seamed bodices before (although this was my first experience with a busk & steel boning).
The corset fit well for the most part...except the bust. :P It gaps a fair bit and puckers a little at the back. I'm a B (almost C)-cup so in theory I'm almost what they draft for... *shrug* Duly noted for next time. ;)
My only suggestion is to measure the bust if you can figure out where it falls. And more importantly: mark the boning channels on the fashion fabric (or interlining, if you're not going to show the channels) before you start stitching (I have the horrible habit of marking as little as possible).

(Reply to this)(Parent)
Which Simplicity Victorian-esque Corset for Me?
[info]tonithegreat
2004-10-26 01:22 pm UTC (link)
Does anyone have an opinion on whether they prefer the corset in Simplicity pattern 9769 or the one in 7215? I want to make one of them in the future, but I don't have a very big bust, so I was thinking that the non bust gore corset (9769) would probably be better. What do y'all think?

(Reply to this)(Thread)
Re: Which Simplicity Victorian-esque Corset for Me?
[info]soniabunny
2004-10-29 05:08 am UTC (link)
You will probably have better luck posting new comments and questions in the journal so more people will see it-- I was only haphazardly looking at this before I saw it. ^^

I have worked with 7215 and 5726/9769 (basically the very same thing). I prefer the latter because I just don't find 7215 all that attractive- the froufrou and seams just don't appeal to me so that's just an aesthetic thing. Like others have said, make a mockup and take 4" off the bust (with a multisized pattern like this go down a few sizes-- for instance, instead of being a 12 all around, I would make a size 6 bust and waist and a 12 in the hips to fit my 33½-27-34 figure (and the corset would lace down to 33-22-33 or so)). Be really thorough with your mockup because mine fit me just fine and weirded out on me when I put bones in it ^^. Maybe you can safety pin a few bones to the front to see how it'll look?

I don't have much new to add to this-- I concur that this was designed with women who have breasts in mind. Constructed correctly it has GREAT potential for waist reduction and I prefer the lines on this one to the silhouette of 7215.

(Reply to this)(Parent)
Re: Which Simplicity Victorian-esque Corset for Me?
[info]anonamouse
2005-01-24 01:46 am UTC (link)
definitely 9769. i have a large bust, and i got the distinct feeling it would look better on someone without.

(Reply to this)(Parent)
Simplicity 9769 - Civil War non-lined
[info]solan_t
2005-01-24 07:29 pm UTC (link)
I have made 9769 four times now. First, be VERY careful about what size you make. I measure (Even taking out two inches for bust and three for waist) as size 16. I made 14 - it closes without difficulty. (see icon - that's my third and it's size 14)

This is size 10. There is about 4 to 5 inches gap. Impetus to lose weight. ;p

http://pics.livejournal.com/solan_t/pic/00003gwh/g2 (hope that works...)

After making it out of just coutil for my first rendition, I use WonderUnder to fuse the fashion fabric to the base fabric (but not the facing pieces), then just follow the directions. Note, I rarely use coutil anymore. Duck and canvas work just fine. This pattern taught me both how to add the busk and how to flat fell seams. (I am SO glad to know flat felling...) It does NOT, however, have directions for a waist ribbon.

I was amazed at how easy this was. The pieces go together with very little easing (meaning, when you lay them right sides together to sew them the edges line up for the most part - but not completely, there is SOME easing). Instead of sandwiched bones, you use boning casings, so there aren't the issues with lining up seams and getting puckers from different sized pieces or badly aligned seams. It IS a little difficult to sew the boning casing to the flat felled seams, I will admit.

It fits me quite well without alteration (short of ignoring sizing) which is very odd, but I don't look that gift horse in the mouth.

(Reply to this)(Thread)
Re: Simplicity 9769 - Civil War non-lined
[info]eggies_red_dres
2007-09-19 08:32 pm UTC (link)
How on earth did you get this pattern to result in such a curvy corset? I'm re- doing a corset made from the same pattern, and for all intents, it's as shaped as a pillowcase. :/

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)
Re: Simplicity 9769 - Civil War non-lined
[info]solan_t
2007-09-19 10:56 pm UTC (link)
Perhaps it's my body. I made it without modification and that's what I get. I have seen it made by others and, yeah, it looks kind of... straight.

(Reply to this)(Parent)
stupid ease
[info]tiamatorin
2006-04-10 04:05 pm UTC (link)
If your measurements are under 33/34 bust 28/28.5 underbust 24.5/25 waist and 32/33 high hip, this pattern will not fit you without annoying alteration. None of the big three patterns is likely to. A size six will be too big. Yes, I know the measurements say it'll be okay, but they lie. Like a rug. Don't fall for their blandishments. All the big three companies work with a standard sloper that has something called ease added in. This is what allows garments to float around your body (think blouses and slacks). Problem with this is, something like a corset is not suppost to float. It's suppost to grip. I usually cut a size ten or twelve pattern depending on how bloated I'm feeling, but forewarned, I cut a six. And then I modified it. I fused the center front pieces as per the advice of iccorsetry but still found that there was a little room in the bust (both underbust and at the very top) and around the hips. The waist gave me a piddly one inch reduction, and I could lace it and then not tie it and it would STAY CLOSED. I can get that kind of an effect with a tight shirt. I am very disapointed. It doesn't help that the waist line is only marked on the very small center front piece and that there are no instructions for lengthening and/or shortening and/or resizing the pattern to fit our lovely individual bodies. I'll be posting pictures of my mockup and asking for advice soon on the main part of the site. Basically, I've got to upload my pics to flickr. Anyway, I was disapointed. If you're small, look into a smaller pattern company, or one that does mostly corsets and wont be stupid and use a sloper with built in ease.

(Reply to this)
lining a corset
[info]love_me_u
2006-09-03 01:27 pm UTC (link)
hello amazing corsetty people..

am making a simplicity corset 7215 (B) and am wondering how the hell you put a lining in?? i've read the instructions and they aren't forthcoming.. this is the first corset i've made with lining..
help would be appriciated!
x

(Reply to this)
pattern 9769
[info]blasepixi
2008-02-16 06:40 pm UTC (link)
I am making this corset for an event next weekend, but lost my instruction sheet! Could anyone be of help?

(Reply to this)

Create an Account
Forgot your login?
Login w/ OpenID
English • Español • Deutsch • Русский…