corsetmakers: Memory #3 - Corsetry on A Budget

Johanna (

britgeekgrrl) wrote in

corsetmakers,
@ 2004-03-06 14:47:00

Entry tags:

fabric, materials, technique, tools

Memory #3 - Corsetry on A Budget
Alrighty, a couple of members have stated that they'd like to see this topic covered. I don't have much to contribute to this one, myself, so please chime in!

Corsetry On A Budget

Foundation fabric: Don't pay $20/yard for coutil - I've discovered that the utiilty duck over at my local fabric store (Jo-Ann's) can be had for as little as $5/yard on sale. It's pure cotton, quite densely-woven (it's often used for tote bags and such) and comes in a variety of colors. I've used it as foundation fabric for three corsets, now, it and it's worked out great - although it is a little thick. Just grade the seams, or enclose the top and bottom in bias tape, rather than turning them.

Boning: I've heard that some corsetiers salvage strips of steel from old hanging file folders (often rescued from the office dumpster), use tin snips to cut to the right length, file down the corners and then spray paint them with some rust-proof spray paint. Can anyone vouch for this technique?

Boning 2: If you're not planning to tightlace, I've discovered that simply boning on the seams suffices - you don't have to muck about putting in a boning channel every 1.5". Heck, it'll save you a few cents if you're not making your own bones. ;)

Surface fabric: Fabric stores sell remnants at a bargain price and corsets don't take a lot of fabric, so check out the remnant bin at your local store. On a similar note, ask your sewing friends if they have any short-ends they're willing to unload for a bargin price - or maybe even free, if you're lucky!

Busk alternatives: Depending on the fit and style you want, you might be able to skip using a busk entirely, or consider using a heavy-duty separating zipper, instead - I've done that myself for a couple of clubbing-corsets and it's looked pretty good. Just be careful not to put the zipper on inside-out! (doh!)

Always, always, always save your leftover fabric and notions from other projects - they might prove useful for a corset in the future. .

(Post a new comment)

equanimity
2004-03-06 03:48 pm UTC (link)

I second the 'don't pay so much for coutil' notion.. coutil is a nice fabric, sure, but it's not the be all and end all of materials. I always use a tightly woven, thin, soft black twill weave that is a poly-cotton blend (a little polyester doesn't hurt for strength).. it shouldn't be able to stetch much when you yank both ends away from each other. Coutil is just a tightly woven herringbone weave (alternating strips of twill weaves), so there's not a huge difference I find, and it's less than $10/yard.

another good idea is to cut corset pieces with the waistline parallel to the warp of the fabric (the lengthwise fibres in a weave). Since these are the fibres that have to take the pressure of being held tautly on the loom they are super strong.

would it be alright if I posted something about making your own corset pattern? I have a pretty easy method for making underbust patterns but i'm not sure what is appropriate in this community yet.

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	lehni 2004-03-06 04:25 pm UTC (link)
	Please post it! I've loved your corsets and dresses and it'd be great to have an insight into how you design them =) (Reply to this)(Parent)

	britgeekgrrl 2004-03-06 05:55 pm UTC (link)
	would it be alright if I posted something about making your own corset pattern? Post away, I think that'll be a good thread to start! (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	equanimity 2004-03-06 06:29 pm UTC (link)
	great :) I'm working on it right now.. it's quite lonnng. (Reply to this)(Parent)

13achelorette
2004-03-06 05:00 pm UTC (link)

alternatives for plastic bones are cable ties and the 1" thick plastic straps they use in the lumber departments at home improvement stores. Alternate either of these with steel bones and the corset will be both affordable and lighter weight. It will most likely not be good for tightlacing.
The lumber straps can work as lacing bones, as well - punch the holes in them with an awl and use them as you would lacing bones. The result is something that holds the grommets in place nicely and is actually more flexible than a lacing bone. I still suggest backing it up with steel but it works and the stuff can be had for FREE.

I have successfully used old denim jeans instead of coutil. Denim WILL tear easily in one direction but not in the other - make sure the strong direction is vertical and it works just fine in a fix.

(Reply to this)

chainmaile
2004-03-06 05:17 pm UTC (link)

I've used the metal straps lumber yards use to hold pallets of wood together as boning. Thye are usually 1/2 or so wide metal (spring steel?). I'v eonly used them in making bodices, but it should work on corsets as well.

That I do is cut them to length with a cutoff whee and my Dremel. I used a sanding wheel and round off the edges of the boning so it won't poke through. I then spray paint the whole bone, usually black, both sides. I then use 'tool dip' a plastic compound you use to recoat the handles of tools, and dip the ends of the boning in. Le tit dry, and repeat the dipping a few more times until you get a nice end on the boning. Very strong and flexible.

(Reply to this)

	aberrantvirtue 2004-03-06 05:47 pm UTC (link)
	Note on base fabric: The discount store near my house, as well as the one on bryant, often have drill/duck for as low as $3, if you get the upholstry kind. I've never had any bad results using this for corseting or foundations of other kinds, so I thought I'd mention it. (Reply to this)(Thread)

	britgeekgrrl 2004-03-06 05:59 pm UTC (link)
	Y'know, I bought duck from that store once... it was awful stuff. Frayed like a bitch. :-P A case of caveat emptor, I guess. ;) (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	aberrantvirtue 2004-03-07 01:33 am UTC (link)
	Was it the apparel kind, or was it the upholstry kind? I have noticed a big difference. ;) (The kind I bought is "pottery barn" brand...like the store.) (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	horser55 2006-09-04 04:46 am UTC (link)
	by the way, i love your icon, very nice. I'm a photographer, that was excellently done (credit to whom ever did it) (Reply to this)(Parent)

	donnaidh_sidhe 2004-03-06 06:42 pm UTC (link)
	I remember a corset posted in corsetry that was really beautiful except for the "lumpy" edges due to thick fabric. What does it mean to "grade" edges? (Reply to this)(Thread)

	britgeekgrrl 2004-03-07 01:47 am UTC (link)
	"Grading a seam" is trimming and/or notching the layers of a seam (or, in this case, the lining, surface and fashion-surface of a corset) close a line of sitching, to reduce the bulk when the garment edge is turned to finish the edge. However, if the fabric is quite thick, it's only so helpful. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	donnaidh_sidhe 2004-03-07 01:48 am UTC (link)
	I have absolutely no idea what that means. :) (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	britgeekgrrl 2004-03-07 01:53 am UTC (link)
	Hm, I'm not such a great tech-writer... Let me see if I can find you an illustration. Do you sew much? (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	donnaidh_sidhe 2004-03-07 01:55 am UTC (link)
	Just one-layer garments to date. Nothing multilayered or terribly complicated. Does it mean cutting the edges of the layers not exactly even so that the edges are spaced out a couple of millimetres apart, or something? (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

britgeekgrrl
2004-03-07 01:59 am UTC (link)

Sorta. You cut the edges of the sewn seam - the raw edges, inside the garment - to reduce the sheer volume of fabric present. It's very handy when making things like jeans and you're dealing with all that denim coming together at the crotch. Cutting little notches at that point reduces the bulk of the seam.

It's also done when you're setting a sleeve, or a curved seam, like a princess seam. You notch (or trim, if the seam is to be pressed to one side and not pressed open) the raw edge inside the garment, so that volume of the fabric doesn't get all piled up against itself and add to the bulk of the item.

(Reply to this)(Parent)

ex_fyrefairy885
2004-03-07 07:41 am UTC (link)

Usually for a graded seam on a two layer garment (like a lined dress) you might trim the fashion fabric's seam allowance to half the width of the lining's seam allowance. Then press together, turn, and voila! Much less bulk. And you can grade as many layers as you have that way...just keeping your proportions even and making the seam allowances nearest the "outside" thinnest. Hope that helps. :) If not, Better Homes and Gardens sewing book has awesome diagrams, also The Costume Technology Handbook.

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	britgeekgrrl 2004-03-07 10:31 am UTC (link)
	A much clearer explanation than mine - thanks! ;) (Reply to this)(Parent)

	queenofstuff 2004-03-10 07:45 am UTC (link)
	What book is The Costume Technology Handbook? It sounds like a book I need, but I can't find it on Amazon or AbeBooks. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

ex_fyrefairy885
2004-03-10 07:49 am UTC (link)

I think the newer edition is actually the Costume Technician's Handbook. It's by Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey (I'd go with this one, not the one for designers). I don't know if you can get it on Amazon and things...I bought it for a class. You might try some of the textbook websites if you don't have luck otherwise. :) (Or if that doesn't work, let me know, and I'll see what I can find out from my costuming teacher.)

(Reply to this)(Parent)

	britgeekgrrl 2004-03-10 09:58 am UTC (link)
	I found it over at campusbooks.com - you might want to try there. :) (Reply to this)(Parent)

	markapura 2004-03-07 11:58 am UTC (link)
	Thanks for this. :-) Now to start. :-) (Reply to this)

jendaviswilson
2004-03-07 02:25 pm UTC (link)

On using salvaged metal: The key is to find spring steel. Hanging folders are usually made from regular steel, which will not hold the corset shape. The way to tell is to see how hard it is to make a permanent bend in it--if you take a piece about a foot long, you can bend the ends around into half a circle and it will snap back. Regular steel will still be a bit curved.

From my point of view, boning is relatively cheap as it is, so saving money on that part isn't necessarily worth it. Making your own boning is more convenient, however. I have used the plastic cable tie technique when I didn't know the precise lengths I needed and didn't have access to a shop that sold bones. I won't do that in the future though, because it adds too much thickness.

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	hellypickles 2007-08-31 02:11 pm UTC (link)
	Ditto, I had a look at some of the old metal bits from a hanging folder in the office and they would not be safe to put inside a corset! They bend straight away and stay kinked and would probably cause damage. (Reply to this)(Parent)

rainah
2004-03-09 09:27 pm UTC (link)

I have also used the metal lumber straps, and I actually prefer it. I use tin snips to cut it to the right length, then carefully! cut it lengthwise so it's half-width. I use a rust-proof paint designed for metal. Oh, and I use the tinsnips to round the edges also. But instead of the dip method, I blunt with duct tape. Surprisingly, it works really well!

I prefer it because it's not as springy, actually. As a generously curved girl, I find that the added support is a life saver.

(Reply to this)

ex_henchwenc60
2004-04-21 09:54 am UTC (link)

What I use exclusively for boning these days is spring steel often sold in hardware stores as "Drain cleaner". It comes on a roll with usually about 9 metres, and costs only a few dolalrs ($4 australian) per roll. It's spring steel, and all it requires is that you wipe off the oil with a cloth, cut it to length, file the ends and dip it in plasti-dip to finish it - and you have wonderful, perfect bones. It's roughly 1/3" wide, so you don't have lots of bulk.

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corsetry on a budget

cirque_solei
2004-05-27 10:10 am UTC (link)

Hello,

Ive made heaps of straight (spring)steel boning from a snakecoil to unclogg sinkdrains. It comes on a roll of +/- 5 meters, 6 mm. wide, 1 mm thickness and costs a few euro's. I ve cut it to the desired lenth with a metalsaw, filed down sharp corners and used spraypaint to protect it against rust. Dipped the ends in a jar of regular paint to get a more rounded tip.
Works verry well, but it takes a bit of time...I guess thats always the trade off, it will cost either time, or money.

beye,

cirque_solei

(Reply to this)

	Boning mistressviolet 2004-08-31 02:29 pm UTC (link)
	I bought a roll of metal packaging tape that goes around crates. It is great in the corsets I have made so for. For $40 AUD, I have made 5 corsets and not even 1/3 way through the roll. You can cut it to exactly the length you want using aviation shears, round the edges with a Dremel and tip the ends in a couple of dips of enamel paint. Mistress Violet Sydney (Reply to this)

Busks and Boning

coinchend
2005-12-15 11:33 pm UTC (link)

I'm posting this a long time after the last post, but I thought you might like this tip:
With pre-1850's corset a different kind of central busk is needed, more so in 18th and 17th century Stays. I discovered a good alternative, a 12" sprung steel Engineer's rule/ruler. Its rounded on one end with a hole, perfect for the busk ties. They are usually cheaply bought in stationary shops. Paint it if you are worried about rust. They resist bending too and the metal is thin. Their width is wide enough to prevent the usual discomfort of it digging into the flesh.

(Reply to this)

cheap lacing bones...

soapmaster
2006-03-13 02:55 pm UTC (link)

I heard about this on a group, can't even remember who posted it, but gave it a try. Here in Canada we have a steel called All Round, that comes in 25 foot rolls...they use it to wrap pipes to hang them for support, also on stairs to add support and weight strength (hope I am describing this well enough) Anyway, it has larger holes every inch, and smaller holes in between them. The 00 grommets will fit in the larger holes. It does give accurate spacing for grommets, and support, and is way cheaper than buying lacing bones! Enough in a box to do 10+ corsets, for $5....you DO need to add spring steel bones as it does flex, so if you put one on either side, that will work great.
Just something I thought may be of interest...

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	Re: cheap lacing bones... fireshaper87 2006-04-25 08:02 am UTC (link)
	nifty! Do you know of any stores that sell it? (I'm in the US, but some stores cross broders) (Reply to this)(Parent)

cheap new underbust...done!

soapmaster
2006-03-17 12:37 am UTC (link)

Just finished my new underbust...my first corset! I made the pattern with a 5 pce, NO busk. I used twill I buy for $1.97 per meter at a discount store, made my own seam binding from cotton that I also buy for $1.97 per meter... made my own pair of lacing bones from All Round, have 14 pair of eyelets (couldn't find small grommets but this is my first and a test), pair of 108 inch laces, spring steel bones that I cut to length. My cost on this corset is about $5, with the eyelets being the most expensive part! Had my sister lace me up...and of course she didn't do it tight enough, but I guess I will wear it for awhile then get it tightened again, AFTER I milk the goats!

Anna
farm girl, working in my corset

(Reply to this)(Thread)

	Re: cheap new underbust...done! horser55 2006-09-04 04:55 am UTC (link)
	amazing, would you mind telling how you did that? how did u know what to cut?? i'm sooooo bad at patterns, i make skirts by eye (Reply to this)(Parent)

	sekhmets_enigma 2006-08-10 12:59 pm UTC (link)
	Just starting into corsety and i do look for cheaper alternatives. I have tons of waste wool from knitting things and find that making these into cords they can be used not only for lacing corsets but also for using in narrow channels as an alternative to boning. I find it comfortable to wear and a lot easier for cleaning my corset. (Reply to this)(Thread)

	horser55 2006-09-04 04:56 am UTC (link)
	wool to make boning? how is that? (Reply to this)(Parent)

reaally broke??

goatsfoot
2006-09-16 02:48 pm UTC (link)

i've been collecting street cleaning bristles off the street but am yet to use them... they're thin and shortish but very springy, and free. they're found usually in gutters, and are quite unnoticeable until you start looking for them.

oh and i know someone who used salvaged windscreen wiper metal backings successfully... is also sprung steel and quite wide and long, although a bit thick and a bit rippley.

but i'll follow up your suggestions! x

(Reply to this)

	kandigurl 2006-10-21 12:51 am UTC (link)
	I'm coming upon this entry late (hunting through memories), but I have used the hanging file folder as boning technique on my duct tape corset (EXTREMELY economical and good practice ;), and it works wonderfully well. (Reply to this)

strega42
2007-12-18 05:21 am UTC (link)

Also coming into this late, but adding the link here in addition to making a new post: http://www.straptite.com/strap_usa.html

3/8 inch and 1/2 inch widths, 100 foot rolls. They also have the plumbers tape here: http://www.straptite.com/tape_usa.html

As of about Christmas 2007, prices are about $35US for 100' of the stainless steel banding, and $75US for 100' of the stainless plumbers tape.

(Reply to this)

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