corsetmakers: A compendium of boning types (request)

malwae (

malwae) wrote in

corsetmakers,
@ 2005-07-02 18:55:00

Entry tags:

materials, newbie advice

A compendium of boning types (request)
Unless I'm missing something really obvious, there doesn't seem to be a memories post about all the different types of boning people use and what they are called. And what you can use them for.

I bring this up because I was thinking about making corded stays, and I thought, "I wonder what everybody else uses for cording." I am still wondering.

So, I was wondering if everybody could put in their two cents on the following and to include what I've missed.

Spiral steel - looks like a screen door spring run through a wringer, correct? Used on the curvy bits.

Spring steel - not sure; is this the same as flat steel? Gets used on the non curvy bits, from what I can tell.

Flat steel - different than spring steel?

Cable ties - those plastic stringy things one uses to organize the bazillion electrical wires running from the back of entertainment centers. Used for the curvy bits? Possibly for corded stays?

Hack saw blades - only for the desperate stuck in third world countries. Can snap; interface heavily.

File folder pieces - I remember somebody saying you could cannibalize something from an office supply store; what piece of the file folder exactly I've forgotten.

Stuff snatched from the floor of your local unsuspecting Home Depot while lumber is being unwrapped - Not sure what to call this... strapping? Probably used in the same places as spring steel. Or flat steel.

Cord - I have no clue. What do people use for corded stays?

What have I missed, what are better definitions for these, and what does one call the stuff used to bundle lumber?

(Post a new comment)

laracorsets
2005-07-03 02:31 am UTC (link)

For me there are five types and all come in multiple widths:

- Spiral steel: always silver metal colored and looks like a flatened spring. Comes in a roll or cut and tipped lengths. Requires metal "u" tips if cutting your own. It has alot of give both vertically and horizontally. Ideal for curved seams or gentle support. Never use it on the center back seam next to the grommets.

- Enamel steel (same as flat steel): Literally flat white enameled steel (the boning I prefer to use for most corsets). Comes in cut lengths or by the roll. Cutting you own requires rounding and dipping the tips. Gives more support than the spiral. Commonly found in wider widths as well. 1/4" wide is the most commonly used, 1/2" used by many as well or in combination.

- Cording: Any cord like string used inserted in sewn channels. I buy cotton cording at the dressmakers' supply shops, comes in many sizes. Hemp cord is stiffer and preffered by some. I suppose you can use nearly any type of cord.

- Plastic - Many types of plastic boning on the market. Rigaline which can be sewn through and will give some support. The "plastic whalebone" seems like an excellent product which acts very much like true whalebone did. Then there are the cheap plastic boning sold on a roll at most fabric shops, I hate that stuff! I hear of people very happy with the use of cable ties as well.

- Reeds: Very rarely used today except by those determined to make a truly period correct Tudor corset. From what I understand it is a bit difficult to work with but the results are true to period. I have no intention of ever using real reeds myself.

(Reply to this)

	linuxwitch 2005-07-03 02:38 am UTC (link)
	cable ties (I'm talkin the beefy 175lb tensile strength ones) have applications in corsetry - more along the lines of straight lined periods like Elizabethan, but they do work for a lot of people (including myself) (Reply to this)

enigmania
2005-07-03 03:13 am UTC (link)

Hemp twine is pretty common for corded corsets, among elizabethan dressmakers:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html
http://www.sempstress.org/diaries/grey2002/underpinnings.shtml

I've used the heavy duty cable ties, and they don't have much side-to-side flexibility, which I gather is what the spiral steel does? They probably behave more like weaker flat steel.

(Reply to this)

	magicfuzzball 2005-07-03 03:19 am UTC (link)
	file folder pieces: on the hanging file folders, there are little metal arms that are maybe 12 inches long, and a fairly sturdy metal. i save them when they rip out of the folders at work; would probably be better for a mockup than an actual longterm piece... (Reply to this)(Thread)

bassgirl
2005-07-03 06:36 pm UTC (link)

They're quite moldable, I've found, which is fantastic when you're finally gotten them to the perfect shape, but after you put them in a suitcase you'll probably never get them back to how you liked them in the first place. I've used them on one corset, and they're fine, but I'd rather spend the money on real boning. After all the work of getting the glue off of them and filing the ends, I spend as much time as I do cutting and tipping boning I buy by the metre!

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

eggies_red_dres
2006-11-11 10:13 pm UTC (link)

I found that they were just tooo hard! And they shaved right through twill tape boning channels on the two corsets I made with them. I loved how amazingly supportive they were. The price was that the corsets were more difficult to mold to the body and of corse that they sheared themselves out. And then that they were so intsy in lenght. They'd be great for an underbust IMHO, but as I've run out of hanging folders it's a moot issue.

(Reply to this)(Parent)

	Lumber strapping crownless 2005-07-03 03:55 am UTC (link)
	You are correct in your terminology and uses. (Reply to this)

dixiefrydyankee
2005-07-03 05:43 am UTC (link)

i used to work in electrical suplly and we had the "lumber strapping" all over the place from bundles of conduit. I tried to use it ( and maybe we just had different stuff) but it rusted and it was kinda sharp along the edge. I rounded the ends, but the edges cut the boning channels when i put them in *which should be taken with a grain of salt, because the channels where made with bias binding (I didn't know better)so it's not like it sliced through cotton canvas or anything* but i imagine that you could spray enamel on it to keep it from rusting and to "blunt" the edges per se.

(Reply to this)

silverhippo
2005-07-03 09:25 am UTC (link)

For the cording in my current project I have been using 100% cotton string in a heavy weight. I did cording samples with sewing shop cording, hemp cord, sissal cord, string and waxed cotton cord (as used for stringing beads). I liked the string best as it gave a very stiff finish though not as stiff as the sissal which was too stiff to do what I wanted. For a softer corded look I would probably just use the sewing shop cording. I have also seen some historical corsets where it was described as cording but used thin canes, which would liik very similar but be quite sturdy.

If you are thinking of doing cording it would be best to do some samples to get the feel if each type befor you decide which on to use.

(Reply to this)

	bassgirl 2005-07-03 06:40 pm UTC (link)
	Farthingales has a good summary of different kinds of steels here. Your summaries are correct, but that page gets a little more detailed, including hoop steel and instructions on cutting and tipping different kinds of bones. (Reply to this)

	auroraceleste 2005-07-03 09:09 pm UTC (link)
	Here's my info page on boning: http://www.costumebeginner.com/corsets/hardware.htm (Reply to this)(Thread)

	oh hey! dixiefrydyankee 2005-07-03 11:53 pm UTC (link)
	I didn't know that was your page! I think it's great, by the way. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: oh hey! auroraceleste 2005-07-03 11:59 pm UTC (link)
	Thanks! Looks like I'll have to get some reed and cording sections done soon . . . Yay! I love to see people experiment with new things! (Reply to this)(Parent)

	britgeekgrrl 2005-07-06 03:50 pm UTC (link)
	I think we have a memory regarding cheap boning alternatives, but not one discussing all types of boning at once. I'll add this entry to the list. :) (Reply to this)

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