dixiefrydyankee ([info]dixiefrydyankee) wrote in [info]corsetmakers,
@ 2005-06-12 19:04:00
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Entry tags:technique

Grommets: the bane of my perfectionism...
Ok. so, from what i've heard, it seems like EVERYBODY uses an awl to make a hole in the fabric to insert grommets. cutting an actual hole in the fabric is always critisized because it comprimises the structural integrity of the fabric because it severs threads and can cause the grommets to pull out. but whenever I use an awl, not only does it also sever threads, the grommets are SIGNIFICANTLY larger than any hole i can make with an awl, and makes the fabric look lumpy and won't lay flat when the grommets are in. which makes sense to me. 2 things cannot occupy the same space at the same time. so with the grommet in the fabric, it pushes the fabric out of the way, and the fabric has no place to go, but into lumps. am i missing something? i make holes so i can put them in. thats the only way i can make them look normal.


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[info]iconoclast_dawn
2005-06-13 12:10 am UTC (link)
I didn't have an awl and I didn't think it would work very well because of the 'two things in one place' theory... I ended up using and exacto knife to put a very small slice in the fabric and shoved a meat thermometer through it. (same size as the eyelets, worked wonderfully)

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[info]bloodykissez
2005-06-13 12:17 am UTC (link)
i just fold the portion of fabric slightly ans make a small snip. then i work the grommet base through. you can look at the pix of mine i just finished, it worked just fine. i dont think it compromised my fabric because the hole fit snugly around the grmmet and then i hammered the top part and sandwiched the fabric tightly between the two.

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My personal experiences.
[info]nvisiblegrrl
2005-06-13 12:21 am UTC (link)
I don't use an Awl. I use the hole cutter that came with my grommet setting tool. But, here's what I do to strenghten the fabric. After about the 4th or 5th corset i'd made, I realized I was having problems with grommets pulling out and I found out through trial and error what to do that worked well for me.

1. Since I always use Cotton Duck as the base fabric for all of my corsets, on the last section, I make sure that I cut that on the fold of both the duck and the outer fashion fabric ...that gives me a total of 4 layers of fabric. Then, I also fuse another single strip of duck between the folded layers of duck. This gives a tiny bit of extra thickness for the grommets to grab and it also gives some stability to the duck to prevent pulling or tearing of the fabric.

2. I punch the hole. I use the 1/4 inch punch for the size 0 Grommets.

3. I then apply to both sides of each hole fray check or fabric glue (whichever I have on hand) and let that get almost completely dry before I apply the grommets.

4. Finally, I put the grommets in the holes and make sure they are securely fastened to the fabric.

I used to have the hammer type of grommet setter, but have since purchased the setting machine but I wear all of my corsets that I've made both ways tightlaced and none of them have had the grommets pull out since I've started doing them this way.

One final thing is that I always put a steel bone on either side of the grommets. This also helps with stabilizing them from pulling out.

Good Luck!

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Re: My personal experiences.
[info]mrpet
2005-06-13 03:16 am UTC (link)
I also punch and strenghten. I use 1" seam allowances on the back panel so that I also have 4 layers to punch through. If the fashion fabric is too wimpy I will fuse something to it.

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[info]dixiefrydyankee
2005-06-13 01:22 am UTC (link)
i cut a hole in the fabric using a puynch that you hammer. it cuts the fabric quick and clean, and the hole is just slightly smaller than the grommet so its still snug but not causing lumpyness. personally i think it is a big conspiracy. i think everybody is in on this big ploy to sabatoge people's grommets. naw, i'm just kidding.

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[info]dixiefrydyankee
2005-06-13 01:26 am UTC (link)
but you know what just occured to me? (well, of course you don't) you see, i have this heaven-sent sewing machine, and it has an eyelet stitch. and i was thinking, if i punched a hole and did an eyelet stitch, and THEN put the eyelett in, it would keep the fabric from wussing out, and maybe it would act as an extra little lip for the grommet to hold on to since the stitch is slightly raised, ya know? on second thought, maybe its just overkill. you know, i'm gonna try one right now and see what happens.

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[info]dixiefrydyankee
2005-06-13 01:29 am UTC (link)
yeah, nevermind. that's a whole lot of overkill. at least with my machine it is. scratch that idea.

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[info]nvisiblegrrl
2005-06-13 02:21 am UTC (link)
i would have done the eyelet sticht first then punched the hole...making sure the eyelet was just slightly larger than the hole you're punching...if that makes sense

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[info]cherylsterling
2005-06-13 02:03 am UTC (link)
After I punch a very tiny hole in my fabric I push a knitting needle that is the size of the hole desired for the grommet size I am using and I have never had any problems with it.

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[info]linuxwitch
2005-06-13 02:40 am UTC (link)
yep, knitting needles rock!

I have a special (read: broken) bamboo needle that lives in my sewing box for just that purpose :)

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[info]wickedladybear
2005-06-13 09:33 am UTC (link)
I do something similar, I punch a smaller hole and then use a tapered awl and then fraycheck the hole before doing the grommet. Im also liking the eyelets with washers better than the grommets. (grommets have a flange on the front eyelets dont)

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[info]tiamatorin
2006-01-18 06:52 am UTC (link)
For my period pair of bodies (elizabethan corset) I use an awl to punch the holes, then I use a chopstick to widen the hole so that I can get a lacing through it, then I hand bind it.

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[info]solan_t
2005-06-13 02:14 am UTC (link)
My awl just happened to be the perfect size for the OO grommets I use - meaning, just a little larger than the staft of the grommet. I force the fabric all the way up, put the grommet on the awl as far as it will go (about halfway) set the awl in the hole in the center of the setter anvil, then push the fabric down, which forces it over the grommet. I quickly pull out the awl and replace it with the top part of the setter and hammer it down. Works rather nicely.

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[info]sarcasm_hime
2005-06-13 02:55 am UTC (link)
I start with an awl, then enlarge the holes using a chopstick. It takes a bit of patience as the fibers have to relax, but I can get the holes big enough for 00 grommets even through 3 layers of fabric.

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[info]random_c
2005-06-13 06:18 am UTC (link)
Personally I cut my holes with a very sharp semicircular wood chisel donated by the boyfriend's brother and I've never yet had a problem.

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[info]iglowforyou
2005-06-13 08:06 am UTC (link)
I used an awl for my last project. Once I had made the hole with the awl (which isn't nearly large enough :( ) I used a very sharp pointy 1" spike wristband we had lying around and jabbed that into the holes. It's kinda tough to push it through, and it take some work but I can make the holes just the right size.

I push the grommet through right away so the hole doesn't close, and then there is the extra fabric hanging around from where it used to occupy the hole. Well I just take that and kinda scrunch it up around the grommet that is sticking through the hole and then hammer the pieces together with the scrunched part inside. I've never noticed any lumps! Good luck and I hope what I wrote at least made sense to you :D

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[info]britgeekgrrl
2005-06-13 03:21 pm UTC (link)
There's enough discussion and interesting tips here to make this a memory. Woot!

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[info]bassgirl
2005-06-13 07:14 pm UTC (link)
I also use the apparently popular method of punching a hole first. I have those Prym pliers (I HATE using them for setting grommets, but they're a dream for punching holes), and I use a size that's a bit smaller than my grommets. If my outer fabric tends to unravel, I'll put a bit of fraycheck around the holes first (or sometimes after.. depends on the fabric), and then use a chopstick to gently widen the hole to the correct size. I find punching small holes first makes my grommets line up better, and it's a LOT easier.

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[info]solan_t
2005-06-13 07:59 pm UTC (link)
I have found my grommets line up much better since I started using an awl versus trying to cut holes with a hammer-type punch.

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Sewing eyelets
[info]missmaryrae
2005-06-13 09:32 pm UTC (link)
The way I do it depends on the type of corset I'm making. Unless I have a reason for there to be shiny gromets on it, what I usually sew the lacing holes. I have very little luck with setting gromets. I ruined one corset just setting them, and when I managed to get them in successfully, even with extra layers of duck for "grip", they tore out.

What I generally do is as follows: sew an eyelet, by machine, while the fabric is whole. Then I go in with a series of knitting needles and stretch the threads inside the eyelet. Lastly, I whipstitch around the eyelet, through the hole, to hold the stretched threads open. It makes for small lacing holes, but I prefer mine to be discrete. I also like that I can make my eyelets any color that I want to, so they can coordinate with my fabric.

If you go the sewing method, it's doubly important that you reinforce each side of the holes with boning. Without the extra support, the eyelets may not be able to take the stress, and the fabric will be ruined.

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More grommet info...
[info]dragoncorsets
2005-06-16 01:28 am UTC (link)
I have a rotary punch that I ordered from Tandy Leather. (I recently upgraded to their $40.00 industrial one because I blow through 3 pairs a year at $18.00 each!) In addition to having your choice of hole sizes up to 00, the smallest punch size is perfect for busk studs! The hole is just large enough to push the stud through, but it won't come back out again once the busk is stitched in. A little fray check before you push the stud through will take care of any fabrics that may run or fray.

And I second everyone's suggestion to place the holes between two channels of boning! The closer the channels are to the edges of the grommets, the stronger the whole thing will be. I sew three channels down the back edge of my corset half, each 3/8" wide and on a 5/8" seam allowance. Before the boning goes in, punch and set your grommets. You'll be able to have the boning so close it will probably skim the edges of the washers. This is good! No fraycheck should be needed, particularly if the hole is a tad smaller than the staft of the grommet. 7 years and no pulled out eyelets!

And those grommet setting pliers are a waste! The pressure needed to set a grommet and washer flush to the fabric will blow those things out after a few uses. Go to www.farthingales.on.ca, where she has a die and stylus doodad you hit with a hickory mallet. It's one of the best investments I've ever made! Good luck.

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Lacing Bones?
[info]de_sjiem
2007-06-05 07:01 pm UTC (link)
Has anyone tried using lacing bones? I've seen them on some corset supplies sites, and was wondering how they worked... I had also been thinking I could drill holes in the flat steel and use that to set the grommets in as well... I hope to begin my first corset project pretty soon...

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