Sarcasm-hime ([info]sarcasm_hime) wrote in [info]corsetmakers,
@ 2005-02-26 11:41:00
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Current mood: contemplative
Entry tags:patterns, reference

I've seen tons of Victorian corset patterns, and everybody seems to be happy with the Laughing Moon ones, but are there any patterns for 17th or 18th century stays that people have found especially good? Thanks.


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[info]auroraceleste
2005-02-26 05:28 pm UTC (link)
I really like the Butterick pattern:

B4484 or B4254

The shape is very similar to one of the 18th century corsets in Corsets and Crinolines, but you don't have to resize the pattern. I modified the boning slightly on mine, I extended the vertical bones all the way to the top, then wrapped the horizontal bones around on top, doubling the top boning, but you could do it the pattern way and get a period look as well.

I don't know if Canada has JoAnn's, but here they are having Butterick patterns for $1 on March 10-12, so it's worth looking into.

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[info]sarcasm_hime
2005-02-26 05:33 pm UTC (link)
Thanks! I'd seen that one in the pattern books but wasn't sure if it was any good. ^_^

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[info]rvqavalon
2005-02-26 06:52 pm UTC (link)
It is good, but I've heard that people have found that they need to cut a size or two smaller than they usually wear. Mine, I made to my measurements, and they're too big. So that's something to look out for. Otherwise, it's a good pattern. :)

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[info]electradesigns
2005-02-26 09:14 pm UTC (link)
I really like them too. I made mine based on the measurements on the envelope and it fits perfectly. It's almost identical to the style in corsets and crenolines I used to scale and alter, but without all the fuss. I haven't tried the Victorian style, but the stays came out nicely. I haven't finished it completely because I got busy with client orders. I would make a mockup first if you are concerned about size. Good luck with these patterns. Get them for $1 each if you can.

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Butterick Stays
[info]corsetra
2005-02-27 03:10 am UTC (link)
I remember a discusion on an 18th century list about this pattern. I think what the end assement was that it was a good pattern for $1. That one should use real boning, hand done eyelets and to change the lacing to Spiral Lacing as that appears to have been the most common way to lace stays. The horizonal bone is period correct.
Here is a review: http://www.marariley.net/stays/staysinstructions.htm
Spiral Lacing:
http://www.nwta.com/couriers/11-97/Lacing.html
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/lacing/lacing.html

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stays pattern
[info]corsetra
2005-02-26 08:08 pm UTC (link)
There are a few patterns out there. here is my list.

A free pattern for 17th cent
http://www.vincents.demon.co.uk/stays/stays.htm
Stays: A Brief History. How to make 17th Century stays using the Pfalzgräfin Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg (1598) pattern in Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion

Pattern for purchase 17th cent
http://www.mantua-maker.com/
Mantua Maker has a pattern for a Quilted Pair of Bodies 1550-1630 (check out this review: http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/mantua.htm

Free 18th cent patterns
http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/schnitte/s1700a.shtml
Corset patterns (also check out: http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18corset.shtml
for instructions on how to make 18th century stays.)
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/leloirX2.htm
Two Corset patterns from Leloir
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/18thpatterns.htm
Mid 18th Century corset pattern from Kohler

18th cent patterns for purchase
http://www.jpryan.com/
J.P. Ryan has a pattern for strapless fully boned 18th Century Stays. (Check out this review: http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/ryan.htm
http://www.mantua-maker.com/
Mantua Maker has a pattern for a pair of Georgian Stays 1720-90 (Check out this review: http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/mantua.htm
http://www.tailorsguide.com/
Tailor’s Guide has a pattern for 18th Century partially boned Stays
http://www.harriets.com/
Harriets has a pattern for 18th Century stays. Back laced with front lacing for adjustments 1760-80 (The picture of the original corset shown is from Karen Augusta: http://www.antique-lace.com/date1/0089/0089.htm ) (Check out this review: http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/harriett.htm
http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
Burnley and Towbridge own the Mill Farm Pattern line. Mill farm has a pattern for 18th Century jumps or leather stays
http://www.butterick.com/index.html
Butterick has a corset pattern out (#B4254) (Check out this review: http://www.livejournal.com/community/corsetmakers/97164.html )
Period Impressions has a pattern for half boned stays (check out this review: http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/pi.htm )

Also for books that have patterns:
Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh (ISBN# 0878305262) is THE classic corset pattern book. (Check out this review: http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/corsets.htm )
Waisted Efforts: An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making by Robert Doyle (ISBN# 0968303900) is meant to by the author to be a supplement to Norah Waugh’s Corsets and Crinolines. This book shows you how to draft your own corset patterns.
The Little Corset Book: A Workbook on Period Underwear by Bonnie Holt Ambrose (ISBN# 0896761304) is a cute little book with patterns
Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915 by Katherine Strand Holkeboer (ISBN# 0896761258) is a book on making theatrical costumes but does has corset patterns.
Revolution in Fashion: European Clothing 1715-1815 by Jean Starobinski, Philippe Duboy (ISBN# 1558590722) from the Kyoto Costume Institute has pictures of corsets and a pattern for 176070 Stays and three dress patterns by Janet Arnold
Fitting and Proper by Sharon Ann Burnston (ISBN# 1880655101) has a pattern for 18th Century stays
Tiddings from the Eighteenth Century by Beth Gilgun (ISBN# 1880655047) has a pattern for 18th Century Stays
Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett, Janette Haslam (ISBN# 0887346103) has Theatrical Costume Patterns including 4 Corsets and many boned Bodices
History of Costume: From the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century by Blanche Payne the 1965 Edition of this book has patterns in the back including 2 18th Century Corsets. I am not sure if the newest edition of this book has the patterns but the 1992 edition does not have the patterns


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Re: stays pattern
[info]sarcasm_hime
2005-02-27 07:39 am UTC (link)
Wow, thanks for that wealth of info!

Do people usually go the route of finding reeds for stays like this or can spring steel work fine as well? (I can get spring steel easily in town; not sure about the reeds) I'm not psycho about accuracy but I do want it to look reasonably correct, silhouette-wise.

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Re: stays pattern
[info]corsetra
2005-02-27 09:32 am UTC (link)
Using reeds is somewhat accurate. Baleen is more common. Spring steel would work fine. I haven't used reeds myself so I have no idea about them. the spring steel will look fine,
Amanda

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Re: stays pattern
[info]britgeekgrrl
2005-03-07 12:10 am UTC (link)
Well, I think this entry just made the memories list. Thanks for the help, corsetra!

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