corsetmakers: leather question

alice6 (

alice6) wrote in

corsetmakers,
@ 2004-10-04 10:48:00

Entry tags:

technique

leather question
I just have a quick question. I am looking for leather for a corset and I am having a bugger of a time finding some, plus, I've never worked with leather before so I have no idea about weight and the such that I should be using for this. Does anyone have any suggestions about where would be a good place to get some either online or instore and what kind I should use?

Any other advice on working with leather for a corset would be appreciated aswell, thank you!

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soniabunny
2004-10-04 08:15 am UTC (link)

I started work on a faux leather/pvc corset last night so I'm full of obnoxious tips. ;P

Acquiring it-- you might want to go to a leather specialist person who can get it to you in yards. Online stores (I can't think of any at the moment but fabricssomething.com sells leather) may carry it as well.

Cutting it -- you probably don't want to pin pattern pieces onto leather, even with fine dress maker's pins, so what I've done is put baby food jars on top of the pattern to hold them in place while I trace with chalk and then cut.

Sewing it -- special needles required, of course. Leather/denim needles are going to be your best bet. They have a special tip for cutting the fabric as it puts a hole into it. You might also want to opt for different thread. 100% cotton is strong because it doesn't stretch and that can be a problem with a corset that takes heavy abuse. 60poly/40cotton blends are better, and if you think you need extra support, upholstery thread is the next step. Stuff like rayon will be good for top stitching (the other threads may not look as good next to fine leather) but cannot be relied upon for structural support.

If your leather's thin enough you'll definitely want to use flat felled seam for the actual construction of your seams, or some other method to keep the seam allowances flat. Leather should not come in contact with a hot iron (mm, hot lambhide!) and I don't imagine it would take well to pressing at all. Leather doesn't fray like canvas, for example, but little fibers come off the ends so I wouldn't recommend an unprotected seam allowance that's just exposed to th elements-- some options I'm toying with are sewing twill tape over them. In that situation I would also topstitch with rayon-- the lines on the outer shell will look attractive when done with a steady hand and add to the visual curvature of your corset. Alternately, you can put your bone casings right on top. I plan to use flat felled seams and I'll tell you how well that works for me. It's obviously going to add bulk but for heaven's sake! we put a pound of steel into these things! :D

Over my research, people who sew with leather and vinyl and PVC on personal sewing machines may run into difficulties with their presser foot sticking to the material. The solution is to sew with light, fine tissue paper-- actually sewing the paper on to the seams as they go-- to prevent sticking. The paper tears right off when you're done and there is no sticking. Other alternatives cost a bit more money and involve BUYING teflon coated presser feet, rolling or walking feet. I haven't looked for these before but I imagine they aren't cheap. If I go shopping before you start your project I'll let you know what I find. ^^

I got most of this information from doing precise google searches that yielded about 12 results, ie "sewing pvc", "sewing vinyl", "sewing leather" and got a bunch of stuff from message boards. Hope it helps. Hope I learn something before I start sewing. ^^;;;;;;;;;;;

(Reply to this)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 08:22 am UTC (link)
	well thank you very much, any assistance I can get is greatly appreciated. I accually have not been very good at sewing so this is all really new to me, but I love wasteing money, playing, and experimenting :D. Would you recommend that I try pvc or the such b4 attempting leather? Btw, good luck with yours, I'm sure it will turn out beautiful :D (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

soniabunny
2004-10-04 08:44 am UTC (link)

Thanks! ^_^

I would do a mockup with a heavy twill to get used to a dense fabric, and if you can find a PVC or leather-looking remnant play with that on the machine. You don't have to make the mockup corset out of it, but get used to how your machine and needles work with it. See how much you have to fold it and squish it and how mistakes will look if you have to take threads out, etc. Practice makes perfect.

It might also help to look at other leather garments and study how they're constructed. What kind of seams they use, how big the seams are, whether they're serged, etc. I think I will do that. ^^

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 08:46 am UTC (link)
	Thank you, I think I will try that, it would probably lessen my aggrevation with the real thing quite a bit :D (Reply to this)(Parent)

auroraceleste
2004-10-04 11:05 am UTC (link)

Buy garment weight, 2-4 oz. 1/2 hide should make 2 or 3 corsets.

Acquiring it-- you might want to go to a leather specialist person who can get it to you in yards. Online stores (I can't think of any at the moment but fabricssomething.com sells leather) may carry it as well.

I wouldn't recommend this. Leather in yards is fake. It has to be to come on a bolt. But they'll probably try to charge you real leather prices. At the least research to know you're not getting ripped off. Real leather is sold by the hide, or half-hide, and priced by the square footage on the piece.

Cutting it -- you probably don't want to pin pattern pieces onto leather, even with fine dress maker's pins, so what I've done is put baby food jars on top of the pattern to hold them in place while I trace with chalk and then cut.

I whole-heartedly agree. I usually skip the chalk and trace with either black or silver sharpie. Any marks will be on the inside, and NOTHING is bleeding through leather, so I use a permanent marker that won't bleed.

Sewing it -- special needles required, of course. Leather/denim needles are going to be your best bet. They have a special tip for cutting the fabric as it puts a hole into it. You might also want to opt for different thread. 100% cotton is strong because it doesn't stretch and that can be a problem with a corset that takes heavy abuse. 60poly/40cotton blends are better, and if you think you need extra support, upholstery thread is the next step. Stuff like rayon will be good for top stitching (the other threads may not look as good next to fine leather) but cannot be relied upon for structural support.

100% cotton is bad for many reasons, but most importantly because Leather is tanned with chemicals that react badly with cotton fibers. If you use cotton then in a few years the thread will react with the chemicals and rot away. Cotton/Poly thread is better, but I like the 100% polyester.

If your leather's thin enough you'll definitely want to use flat felled seam for the actual construction of your seams, or some other method to keep the seam allowances flat. Leather should not come in contact with a hot iron (mm, hot lambhide!) and I don't imagine it would take well to pressing at all. Leather doesn't fray like canvas, for example, but little fibers come off the ends so I wouldn't recommend an unprotected seam allowance that's just exposed to th elements-- some options I'm toying with are sewing twill tape over them. In that situation I would also topstitch with rayon-- the lines on the outer shell will look attractive when done with a steady hand and add to the visual curvature of your corset. Alternately, you can put your bone casings right on top. I plan to use flat felled seams and I'll tell you how well that works for me. It's obviously going to add bulk but for heaven's sake! we put a pound of steel into these things! :D

I have my boyfriend press my seams with a hammer. It's really the only way to open up the seam permanently. Just use a large rubber mallet and tap carefully, moving every time so you don't leave an impression. Also, don't hit too much on the edge of the seam allowance or you'll leave a shadow.

Over my research, people who sew with leather and vinyl and PVC on personal sewing machines may run into difficulties with their presser foot sticking to the material. The solution is to sew with light, fine tissue paper-- actually sewing the paper on to the seams as they go-- to prevent sticking. The paper tears right off when you're done and there is no sticking. Other alternatives cost a bit more money and involve BUYING teflon coated presser feet, rolling or walking feet. I haven't looked for these before but I imagine they aren't cheap. If I go shopping before you start your project I'll let you know what I find. ^^

Once you get a walking foot you'll never sew the same again! But if you can't afford it, you can use paper. Light and fine doesn't really matter, I've used typing paper, waxed paper, cut grocery bags, whatever was lying around. The needle will perforate the paper so you just tear it away afterward. Just be sure to use paper on both the bottom near the throat plate and on top near the presser foot.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

auroraceleste
2004-10-04 11:08 am UTC (link)

Ugh, it won't let me post my full post. I guess I'm too long-winded.

Also find a simple pattern. Leather doesn't ease or curve easily, so the fewer seams the better. Also, if you don't want to worry about seam allowances pick up a bottle of leather weld. This is a clear, flexible glue you can use to glue your seam allowances flat. I love the stuff, it's simple and forgiving. If you get it on the front of your corset just soak a cloth in water, let it sit on the glue for a minute or so, and peel it off.

Leather, especially thin leather like 2-4 oz, will stretch, so be sure to use a good strong base fabric. Be sure to use a nap layout when cutting your pattern. Cows are like humans, their skin stretches more one way than the other, and you want their stretchy way to be your up-and-down, not around your waist. The cow stretches around his waist, so orient your pattern pieces accordingly.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

alice6
2004-10-04 11:15 am UTC (link)

nah, you are certainly not long-winded just full of advice, thank you. As much as common sense should kick in, one tends to forget about the obvious about stretching. the pattern I have devised now is about12 pieces but it is a work in progress, but anyhow, so I should use a much more limited pattern for leather in this case? Thank you very much for all your advice, btw I have only one leather supplier in my area (sort of) but I have not been there yet, I think they are a nationwide company, have you heard anything from anyone regarding them?

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 11:17 am UTC (link)
	oops sorry, the supplier would be Tandy leather, I'm being slow today, argh. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

The Leather Facotry (Tandy Leather)

miss_tori_jones
2004-10-04 02:04 pm UTC (link)

Just got my catalogs in today.....and they have a GRAND Special this month

Oily Utility Sides - top grain sides 3-5 oz weight 24 sq. foot average size $59.99 per side or if you get 3 or more $49.99 per side.

4-6 sq foot single shoulders $14.99 each for tooling leather in 4-5 oz or 6-7 oz.

3.5-4 oz sueded utility split ranges 10-16 sq. ft. $1.99 per sq.ft

Fine Italian Chap Leather 2.5-3.5 oz sides 24 sq. ft. $49.99 each or 4 or more for $44.99 each

and more......

I am considering buying some for myself but don't need an entire side so I will investigate buying a smaller piece or search for someone to split it with.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: The Leather Facotry (Tandy Leather) alice6 2004-10-04 02:08 pm UTC (link)
	let me know how it turns out, let me know what you would be looking at perhaps we could go halfsies on it :) (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: The Leather Facotry (Tandy Leather) miss_tori_jones 2004-10-04 02:24 pm UTC (link)
	DEAL......I will see if I will be able to give you the item # and see if it can be looked up on their online site. Hopefully we can both want the same thing..... (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: The Leather Facotry (Tandy Leather) alice6 2004-10-04 02:54 pm UTC (link)
	sounds good, just send me the link or whatnot (Reply to this)(Parent)

	drowsy_poppy 2006-09-25 01:40 am UTC (link)
	Tandy is hit or miss if you're ordering off the internet. Check and see if a store is nearby so you can see the hide before you buy it. On the other hand, www.brettunsvillage.com is a great place to find leather. (Reply to this)(Parent)

auroraceleste
2004-10-04 11:25 am UTC (link)

If it's Tandy Leather, it's good and bad. Bad up until a few months ago when they were bought out by the Leather Factory. Their quality since then has been steadily climbing. I had a good experience in August. The question has usually been with online orders, too, I've heard their shops are always good, probably because you can actually examine before buying.

I also recommend an ebay seller. albrights1 Hopefully this link works. Good quality, has full and half hides, and sometimes pieces large enough to make a corset. He's nice, has good quality, and quick shipping.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 11:32 am UTC (link)
	oh ok, well good to know, I'll have to go to the shop then it's about 2 hours away so not yet but soon, I was thinking about using their site but perhaps having the stuff in hand before buying would be best. The link works :D , I love ebay but lately I've been having nothing but bad luck with people, but I will definitely look into it, thanks (Reply to this)(Parent)

duae
2004-10-04 01:32 pm UTC (link)

I got a rolling foot for pretty cheap at a sewing machine shop. I tooked at the teflon feet but they just didn't look like they'd work as well. After the nice lady put a rolling foot on one of the machines there and sewed saran wrap thin plastic together without any problem, I was sold.

Also the last few time I've worked with leather, I just used scotch tape to hold the pattern edges down. It peeled right off the leather no problem. I'd test it first though, make sure it doesn't damage the leather or leave stickies or not come up.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 01:47 pm UTC (link)
	Great, I'll have to look around, that sounds like a good idea with the tape, I'll have to try that, thanks (Reply to this)(Parent)

auroraceleste
2004-10-04 02:25 pm UTC (link)

Oh! Yes, that's one of my favorites, too, can't believe I left that out. Double-sided tape in the seam allowances is great. If it's a tight curve, I put it in the body of the fabric, too, on both sides of where the seam will go. Just be sure not to sew through it, glue from the tape will get on the thread and the thread will stick to the bobbin case, causing a huge, gummy mess. Also, thread heaven on the needle helps to get tight, even stitches. I've had good results with silicone hand lotion from Avon with this, as well.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 02:30 pm UTC (link)
	oh my, yes I'll be sure to avoid doing that, more mess is the last thing I need :D (Reply to this)(Parent)

	soniabunny 2004-10-04 01:52 pm UTC (link)
	OMF tips thank you!!!!!!! (Reply to this)(Parent)

	FYI miss_tori_jones 2004-10-04 09:11 am UTC (link)
	Joann Fabric & Crafts has their Halloween fabric on sale @ 50% off the regular price...this includes the pleather they sell. Oct 3 - Oct 16 I know my local store has black, red, and BRIGHT YELLOW I could not find it online so if you don't have a JoAnn store near you, I guess this won't help much. (Reply to this)(Thread)

	Re: FYI alice6 2004-10-04 09:13 am UTC (link)
	I have one about an hour away, i'm in the sticks here, argh. I will be in civilization sometime soon to grab my mums sewing machine though so I will be sure to check it out, thank you! (Reply to this)(Parent)

	redheaded_dame 2004-10-04 10:19 am UTC (link)
	I've never been able to afford buying whole yardages of leather. I have however, twice used the leather off of skirts found at thrift stores that had large enough pieces to use. (Reply to this)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 10:23 am UTC (link)
	I have thought of that and because right now i'm learning, i'm basically tearing things i have lying about up, but the skirts i have are still nice so i don't want to ruin them. I have however found that looking for scraps works well because, they are cheap if not free and since the pieces for the corset aren't big this method works well. (Reply to this)(Parent)

	britgeekgrrl 2004-10-04 11:32 am UTC (link)
	puts on Moderator Hat I'm going to add this post to the community memories, as it's got some v. useful tips. Thanks to all of the contributors! (Reply to this)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-04 11:33 am UTC (link)
	once it got rolling I was accually thinking of asking you to do that :) (Reply to this)(Parent)

	mahariel 2004-10-04 09:21 pm UTC (link)
	Keep an eye on ebay - I have two whole hides tucked away for the future, when I get time to sew again, and I got them for $50 each. -Victoria (Reply to this)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-05 05:50 am UTC (link)
	I have been, I am watching a few now, we'll shall see what I can pick up ;) (Reply to this)(Parent)

equanimity
2004-10-05 03:59 pm UTC (link)

I work with leather quite a bit (you can see one of my leather corsets in my userpic) so maybe I can help. I often buy my plain black leather on ebay, I prefer goatskin or very thin cow for corsets. I always think the thinner the better, especially because I flat-fell all my seams, so it can get a bit thick where they overlap. I like 2-3 ounces, and I always make sure it's described as 'soft' as opposed to being very stiff. I often use iron-on interfacing on my leather as well (yes I use an iron it, it really doesn't hurt the leather) to stiffen it and keep it from stretching, as well as lining it. Going against what someone else said, I use lots of pieces in my corsets and have never had a problem, the leather I use is actually quite supple and has no problem going around curves.
I use an industrial machine, so I can't help much for sewing it if you use a domestic. I have a teflon foot on mine and it works wonders. Using polyester thread is best, as cotton can eventually rot in reaction to the tanning agents in the leather. It's important to use a specific leather needle, as it has a triangular tip that won't damage the skin. As people have said, don't pin it, just put you pattern piece on the leather, lay a small can on top and cut around.

I think that's all I can think of for now.

(Reply to this)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-05 04:19 pm UTC (link)
	Thank you very much, gosh I'm learning so much more than I expected. Would you have any suggestions on ppl to stay away from on ebay as far as leather goes? Also I have been meaning to ask you about this corset and see how much it would be to have you make one in that style for me? (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

equanimity
2004-10-05 06:11 pm UTC (link)

Sorry I haven't really bought anything on ebay lately, so I don't think I would know names of people to avoid. Usually if I get a crappy piece of leather it's from someone who was maybe selling just 1 hide they had lying around, and they didn't know enough to describe it accurately. I can think of a few good sellers, jo4rd and acs_trading_post I've bought from a few times. Actually that style I'm not going to be making custom for people.. it's a copy of a corset by Jeroen Van der Klis that I made for myself, but out of respect for his design I'm not going to be reproducing it exactly like this (with the topstitching detail and whatnot).

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	alice6 2004-10-06 05:49 am UTC (link)
	ok well I certainly understand. Thank you for your ebay advice, it is most appreciated :D (Reply to this)(Parent)

	Email me pleaaaaaase? selaittahmorte 2004-11-12 03:51 pm UTC (link)
	I need to know what kind of leather I should get - I don't know much of anything about corset making. I want a type leather that is VERY supportive - i'm a bbw, but not feel like a saddle bag. lol winterskiss@comcast.net thanks much!!! Becky (Reply to this)

piercedgirl23
2004-11-18 11:57 am UTC (link)

I don't know how many of you are from the UK but this is the company I get thick leather from for making cuffs. I've yet to brave doing a corset but I have seen lovely leather in their store I would love to use.
http://www.leprevo.co.uk/ is their webiste but if your near Newcastle or willing to travel (2 1/2hours by train for me) it's well worth popping in as the staff are really helpfull

(Reply to this)

missdeth
2004-12-31 07:50 pm UTC (link)

Just some random interjections. We have a Tandy store near my house and I picked up a half hide of black shiney pigskin for $30, enough to make 3 waist cinchers! :D Also, I use a rolling foot for my White Jeans Machine and it cost me I think $15 at most, though you can usually get them cheaper online.

I'm working on my first leather waist cincher now, and will post pics when it's done :D

(Reply to this)

filishom
2006-12-01 06:42 pm UTC (link)

hehe
im a fashion student using leather for most of my major collection and ive been playing around with samples to etc, i found that a roller foots works amazing , and for holding the seams together when sewing a seam using tape or paper clips as you cant use pins on leather. Also its best to go and see leather and feel it and touch it for quality reasons, also if you buy online you wont be able to see if the leather is damaged in any places and you could end up with more being wasted!
Ive tried both on a industrail and a bernina and found a bernina to be good for topstitching and a industrail for most seams :)
also UHU glue is amazing for leather hehe

(Reply to this)

	designstudent 2008-07-29 04:45 am UTC (link)
	If you make a mistake, it's done. At least that panel. You can cheat on your binding finishing technique with a nice pair or scissors and careful trimming. (Reply to this)

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