| brainstorming for ideas |
[07 Oct 2008|12:41pm] |
Hello advanced knitters! I have a mess of black Elann worsted weight alpaca that I want to knit up into a short-sleeved jacket -- and I have a list of some concrete details I like, but I'm hunting for some examples of garments to inspire me. So I bring you guys some of my ideas and wonder if someone has noticed something similar. Possible features: boxy shape with a belt, all-over texture -- perhaps a subtle cable?, shawl collar, garter edges, top-of-thigh length, curved and possibly overlapping fronts. Maybe dolman sleeves? It doesn't have to be a pattern -- a ready-made garment is fine. Has anybody seen anything similar? Or something with one or more of those features? Any ideas welcome.
(My first stop was the Anthropologie website and found many lovely sweaters for inspiration, but nothing quite like what I want for this project.)
Thanks, knitters! And apologies if this is too vague and "tell me what I want" ish.
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| Rhiannon Socks Technique Question |
[16 Sep 2008|10:02am] |
I've just started Cookie A's Rhiannon Socks. I've had the pattern and wool for over a year, but stuff got in the way, my dog ate my homework, and I gave at the office.
Now, I teach knitting both beginning and special techniques, at a shop in London, but I've just got past the top 1" of ribbing, and I'm stuck! Aie!
Here's the relevant bit of the pattern:
FOLDOVER CUFF:
Set up round: *K2, purl 4 stitches through the back loop without removing stitches from left needle; with left needle in front of right needle, purl 4 stitches again through the front loop, sliding stitches off left needle (4 stitches increased).
I see what this is saying, I just can't manage to *do* it! I get to p tbl number three and everything just wants to slip off the needle. Can anybody suggest a trick that'll make this technique easier? Because I'm about to go for just doing a straight increase and not worrying with the cable setup, as it's not like anybody's going to notice that I didn't make the cable increases exactly the way she said to in the pattern.
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| Ladders In Ribbing |
[21 Aug 2008|02:23pm] |
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When I'm doing any ribbing, I get ladders at the switch from knit to purl, but not anywhere else. No ladders between needles, no ladders at the switch from purl to knit. This happens with any ribbing, 1x1, 10x2, any ribs I've ever knitted. Does this happen to anyone else? Are there any ideas or strategies for where it comes from and how to get rid of it?
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| Three dimensional knitting... |
[27 Jul 2008|01:21am] |
...as applied to a stuffed red dragon.
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| Estonian Garden Wrap finished! |
[17 Aug 2008|01:37pm] |
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With some inspiration from a knitting buddy, I have finally finished the Estonian Garden Wrap:
It had been complete except for the blocking for a few months. It's about time I finished it.
One project down!
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| Bride-to-be seeks perfect drape neck... |
[11 Jul 2008|05:07pm] |
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I'm designing and knitting my own wedding dress and have my heart set on a plunging drape neck...any ideas of books or sites that have an example I could go off of? I can wing it, but the wedding's in May and I'd like to get started on it. Also, I'm looking for a lace weight silk blend yarn (naturally cream) and haven't ventured past my own LYS for yarn before...is there a recommended online/catalog source? I've been googling, but I'd prefer another knitter's opinion. This community is why I finally got a Live Journal account!
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| Veronik Avery Skater's overtop yoke? |
[06 Jul 2008|11:16am] |
Howdy knitters! I wonder if any of you fine crafters have worked this pattern and would advise on the yoke decreasing. I've gotten no replies yet in the Ravelry forum so I thought I'd ask around these parts. It's a saddle-shoulder lace top and I've joined the sleeves, now I'm ready to begin the decreases. Because of the lace, the decreases aren't just regular EZ saddle-shoulder decreases, but rather there is a (fairly confusing) chart included with the pattern. The chart shows decreases on every fourth row but the instructions say to increase 6 times in 8 rows. Huh? Generally I'd wing it -- decrease 3 of the next 4 rows on the body side, then shift to decreasing the sleeves so as to keep correct with the numbers, ignoring the chart.
That said, I'd like to follow the pattern, at least marginally, so I can refer back to it.
Any help or advice greatly appreciated! Or even other hints as regards this pattern.
A link to an earlier progress photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/julieb_allen/2602434545/
Thanks folks!
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| Bottom-up seamless sweater |
[06 Jun 2008|01:59pm] |
I am making a bottom-up seamless sweater, and I have joined the sleeves to the body and knit a few rounds. I haven't made one of these in a LONG time, and I'm not following any pattern.
1) When you are knitting an adult bottom-up sweater, how many inches do you typically knit before beginning your raglan decreases?
2) For my raglan decreases, I'm planning to k2tog/ssk on each side of all markers on every other row. Is my thinking correct on this? Are there other numbers that you prefer for making raglan decreases?
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| Nordic Knitting Conference II: 13-15 March 2009 |
[07 May 2008|10:21am] |
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I went to the Nordic Knitting Conference in Seattle last year and really had a blast. When I asked about it here last September, more than one commenter said, "Oh! If they do another one, let us know!"
Well, thanks to ![[info]](http://p-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif) faeryl, I can tell you they are, so I am.
Here's the PDF of the press release:
http://www.nordicmuseum.org/local/uploaded/knittingconf2009.pdf
--but here's the nitty gritty dates to put into your calendar:
- 10 November 2008:
- Class descriptions will be posted on the museum's website for your drooling pleasure.
- 01 December 2008
- Registration opens! Last time, this was by postal mail only, that may also be the case here. There will be no pre-registration.
- 13-15 March 2009
- Dates of the Conference!
Hope to see some of you there!
-- Lorrie
[Edit to add: It's in Seattle, and I should have said. DUH!]
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| Steeking question |
[17 May 2008|10:36pm] |
Hi all!
I'm really hoping someone here will have some thoughts for me, because I'm at a bit of a loss, and if I frog this piece one more time, DH is never going to let me hear the end of it.
First of all, I've never knitting anything that needed steeking before, but it is something I've been itching to try. I'm working on a baby blanket for our firstborn using this beautiful rainbow yarn I've been saving for something like this. It's 100% merino but my swatch didn't felt *really* well (a bit, but not enough that I'd be comfortable leaving anything unbound) and worsted weight. I'm doing the edging in basketweave and the center in plain stockinette. I realized a couple of inches in that I wouldn't get the beautiful almost tie-dyed pattern the yarn has if I knit back and forth, so I was thinking I'd try knitting it in the round using a steek pretty much like the one shown in the comment here. Is this possible with a blanket? Does it make sense to do a blanket that way? Does anyone have any suggestions as to how? Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I could preserve the patterning in the yarn without steeking? I'm almost wondering if I could turn the cut steek into a fringe? I could sew it off, too, I suppose, although I've never done anything more complicated than a basic hem.
Obviously I'm really fishing for ideas here. The baby's not due until October, but I do have a few other projects I want to knit between now and then, and I'd really like to finish this one before I start another one.
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| Lining Socks? |
[20 May 2008|12:26pm] |
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This may seem like a truly wacky question, but...
My feet are often cold, so i made some wool socks of fairly fine merino. Turns out i am sensitive to wool worn next to my skin. The socks feel fine on my feet, but above the ankle bone, i want to rip my flesh off.
I've tried to find cotton or silk in the same weight and a color to go with the wool (it doesn't have to be an exact match, just look nice together). But when i've knit them into the cuff, the silk and cotton have been too heavy and droopy. (These are toe-up socks, so it's easy to rip the cuff knitting out)
So i'm wondering... would it be too strange to attach a lining to the socks? I'm thinking of ordering silk socks and stitching them at the top of the cuff...
What do folks think? Any other ideas? Thanks!
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| Treble Knitting |
[26 Apr 2008|06:16pm] |
Pattern #55, the Crochet Knit Treble Shell Pattern, in "Traditional Knitting Patterns from Scandinavia, the British Isles, France, Italy, and other European Countries" by James Norbury, is driving me up the wall.
It's a pattern of multiple of 4 plus 2.
Row 1: purl.
Row 2: K1, *w.f., K 1, rep. from * K1
Row 3: K1, P to last stitch, dropping W.F., of previous row, K1
Row 4: K1, * work treble as follows: K into 4th and 3rd stitches, leave on needle, K 1st stitch, drop off needle, K 1, drop all 3 stitches off needle, rep. from * K1
Row 5-7 as 1-3
Row 8: K3, *work treble, rep from * K3
I can't figure out the proper places to drop the W.F. in Row 3, or how to do the treble in Row 4. It seems that you are doing a modified cable or sorts, but I can't see how to do it in such a way that you are left with the proper number of stitches, and don't wind up with dropped stitches in the back of your work.
Does anyone know how to do this sort of thing?
Thanks.
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| border stitches |
[20 Apr 2008|06:52pm] |
Resource question here...
I'm working on designing a new sweater for myself out of some gorgeous maroon bamboo yarn. The basics are decided - stockinette body, raglan sleeves, large scoop neck, subtly puffed 3/4 length sleeves. But I'm stuck on border stitches for the neckline and waist. I want something more interesting than the usual ribbing or garter stitch, but still simple, classy, and elegant. I'd love to do a little bit of lace, but if I don't find anything I'm going to skip borders altogether and just do a single crochet around.
I've looked for inspiration in Nicky Epstein's Knitted Embellishments and Knitting Over the Edge, but hated everything I saw. Is Knitting on the Edge any closer to what I'm looking for? Or are there other books that have good border ideas?
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| Bulkless steek? |
[15 Apr 2008|05:53pm] |
So I'm thinking about steeking, and I'm wondering about the reasonable bulk that two layes of knitting _ floats has... and I'm wondering if a steek could be done with a long carried float (plain stockinette) on the piece that gets turned under. And the long float, after getting tacked down (with a straight machine stitch I think), gets trimmed off and essentially "hemmed in" by the flap of stockinette.
( I made a picture so that I hopefully could make more sense )
I know its not traditional, but is it possible? or crazy and and problematic?
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| Pesky yo's |
[13 Apr 2008|03:51pm] |
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Caps-Flyers |
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I'm working on a pair of socks for NHL playoff knitting. There's some stuff I could say about the overall design, but I'll forego that in favor of a specific question. (Details about the design are here in my personal journal and on my Ravelry project page.)
The first sock, which I finished last night, has a basic pattern of *yo ssk k6* traveling around the sock. What I wanted to do was, on the second sock, use *k2tog yo k6* so the spirals would be in the reverse direction. However, when I started the stitch pattern on the second sock, both the decreases and the yos are snugger than on the first sock.
( See what I mean? )
Obviously, I'm going to go back and re-do the second sock to match the first. But, I have a more general technique question: What causes the yo preceding ssk to be looser than the yo following k2tog? And is there anything that can be done to make them more similar? I'm really attracted to the idea of socks with mirror-image spirals, but with mis-matched yos, the spirals won't really be mirror-image.
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| Upsizing a sweater - am I on the right track? |
[05 Apr 2008|03:14pm] |
This is going to be the most boring post ever but if anyone has the patience to read it, I'd appreciate your feedback.
( Read more... )
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| cabling around corners |
[02 Apr 2008|01:59pm] |
Background: I'm just beginning contemplating designing a cabled fitted vest. I'd love to have a cable that runs along the bottom. I figure I'll need to knit the cable first and then pick up from along the side to knit the body. Now here's the tricky part - I'd love to take that same cable and turn the corner and have it run up the front edges of a cardigan-type vest. But how to turn the corner with the cable? The only idea I have so far is to modify the technique used in Jeanie or to try a mitered cable corner something like this.
My question is can anyone point me to any other techniques for cables turning corners?
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| Too many needle sizes? |
[11 Mar 2008|11:03am] |
I recently made a really lovely pair of fingerless gloves, and I'm in the process of writing up the pattern, and wanted to get some opinions on a technical issue.
The main body of these gloves is worked on size 6 needles, but the cuffs and the upper half-inch or so are worked on size 5s, to slightly snug up those areas for a better fit. So that's two needle sizes being used. But then, I also did a tubular cast-on and tubular bind-off, and I went down to size 3 needles for those so both were nice and neat, so the gloves as knitted (and the pattern as currently written) call for a total of three different needle sizes.
What I'd like to get is your sense of whether that's too many: would it turn you off of a pattern to see that it called for you to have three different sizes of needles? Or would you appreciate the attention to detail? This is otherwise an intermediate to advanced pattern, and fairly intricate, if that makes a difference to your answer.
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| Feather & Fan Stitch Cardigan, part two |
[25 Feb 2008|07:56pm] |
You said you wanted pictures.
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| Linings for knitted garments? |
[24 Feb 2008|07:17pm] |
I'm wondering if anyone has ever lined their knitted item. Besides loving knitting, I also enjoy sewing and have been reading sewing reference books lately (that I wish I had read long ago!). One of them suggests that it's a good idea to line a knitted jacket (to keep the wind out). Of course, the lining has to be able to stretch and wash the same way as the knitted item.
I have never seen this suggested in any knitting book (except for purses and tote bags).
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